Vanistryl contains a number of active ingredients that are designed to treat stretch marks already formed and prevent new ones from appearing. The ingredients are incorporated into a newly developed encapsulation system in an attempt to improve the penetration of the actives. Cocktail of actives Stretch marks are associated with continuous and progressive stretching of the skin and are usually associated with teenage growth spurts and pregnancy. They are caused by a multifactorial process which the Spain-based ingredients provider is attempting to tackle with a cocktail of actives - pseudoalteromonas ferment extract, acetyl tetrapeptide-10 and pentapeptide-18. The pseudoalteromonas ferment extract is a marine based ingredient that is believed to increase the synthesis of collagen I and IV, and elastin. The second ingredient, acetyl tetrapeptide-10 (proposed INCI name), is included as it helps to inhibit the degradation of the extracellular matrix by inhibiting MMP action and the pentapeptide-18 is a neuropeptide believed to act in a similar to botox, explained Lipotec scientific officer Dr Juan Cebrian. Novel delivery system The active ingredients are delivered in a new system designed by Lipotec that improves the penetration of the ingredients, said Cebrian. They are encapsulated in a mixed micellar system which is reconstituted into liposomes on contact with water in the stratum corneum, thereby improving the penetration of the actives, he explained. Although this is the first time the company has used the delivery system, it has the potential to be used for many other active ingredients, he added. Skin lightening and slowing down hair growth Vanistryl was not the only ingredient the company released at last week's show. Lipotec's skin lightening ingredient Chromabright was also presented in Amsterdam, as was Decelerine, a product that has been designed to reduce hair growth and density. A video interview with Dr Juan Cebrian concerning the market for skin whiteners and the company's Chromabright ingredient can be found on the CosmeticsDesign website.