Hair care trends in 2012 so far....

Developments ​

A team of researchers at the University of Pennsylvania discovered a protein that triggers hair loss by analyzing which genes are switched on when men start to go bald.

Led by Prof George Cotsarelis of the department of dermatology, the team found levels of prostaglandin D₂​ synthase, a protein elevated in the cells of hair follicles located in bald patches on the scalp which has the potential for developing a treatment .

In March, researchers at the Fraunhofer Institute for Interfacial Engineering and Biotechnology IGB developed new ways to manufacture surfactants, commonly used in shampoos using biotechnological methods, with the assistance of fungi and bacteria.

Biological surfactants are biodegradable and less toxic than their synthetic counterparts, but have only been used in a few cosmetics until now, as they are costly and difficult to produce, with low yields.

Trends​

According to Euromonitor, convenience and on-shelf presence were the key drivers in the packaging industry this year with the hair care sector seeing pump and aerosol cans surge in popularity.

"Originally pumps used for liquid soap have now been adopted by the skin and hair care categories, and are taking market share away from the more traditional plastic dispensing closures and screw caps​."

Meanwhile Shiseido targeted the Asian market with its anti-ageing hair care range, Adenovital Scalp Essence after research suggested it is of major concern to women in Tokyo, Shanghai, Chengdu and Bangkok.

Elsewhere, Eterno Naturals continued to develop its ammonia, paraben and fragrance-free hair dye range in response to lobby groups and watchdogs campaigning to set specific limits for PPD, which has been at the forefront of industry topics due to allergic reaction cases over the last year.

Innovations ​

Most recently, cosmetics maker L’Oréal revealed it is to launch a new active ingredient in September that awakens dormant hair and enhances hair density.

The new product is to be called ‘Neogenic’, relating to the phase when hair moves from dormant to active, will initially be available in lotion form and will play an important role in future hair applications.

The development relates to research done at the French firm’s new Hair Research Centre concerning its patented molecule stemoxydine; a molecular biomimic of hypoxia via the stabilisation of the protein Hif1a.

L’Oréal research fellow Michelle Rathman-Josser told Cosmetics Design that due to extensive research into hypoxia and its effect on hair follicles, this ‘potentially game-changing’ active has been developed.