The company investigated the effects of a tripeptide extracted from rice, a hexapepetide similar to sequences found in collagen, and a dipeptide dimer extracted from einkorn wheat, both alone and in combination.
According to the research, published in the latest issue of the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, the tripeptide complex can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles, with comparable results to those found with a number of better known treatments such as a combined retinol-lactose-glycolic acid regime.
Stimulates production of Collagen IV
Primarily the researchers looked at the effect of the three peptides in vitro and found that the triple peptide combination (TPC) stimulated the production and release of soluble collagen IV in mature human fibroblasts.
However, individual stimulation of the fibroblasts with any of the peptides on their own did not have a significant effect in comparison to the vehicle, the study claims.
Collagen IV is a component of the basement membrane at the dermo-epidermal junction, which plays an important role in the mechanical support of the epidermis. However, with age, the collagen IV scaffold degrades, the researchers explain in the study.
This leaves two potential pathways open to treatments: increasing the production of collagen or decreasing its degradation. With TPC, the researchers opted for the former.
In vivo studies
The team then went on to investigate the effects of a product containing 3 per cent TPC on the face skin of 21 human volunteers, by comparing it to a placebo cream without the TPC in a double blind trial.
Volunteers applied the treatment twice a day for four weeks on one half of the face, applying the placebo to the other side. According to the study, there was a significant reduction in the number of wrinkles, total wrinkle surface and average wrinkle depth, compared with the placebo.
A longer study using only the treatment and comparing it to baseline levels was also conducted where 27 volunteers applied the product twice a day for 12 weeks.
Although there was a slight improvement in the average skin roughness and the average difference between the peaks and the troughs of the skin after four weeks, these were not significant.
However, after 8 and 12 weeks there were significant reductions in both these parameters, which the researchers claim is comparable to some of the most effective anti-ageing agents developed.
“Here we have shown that the TPC achieved comparable benefits to retinol. Without the irritation or the formulation restrictions associated with this cosmetic ingredient,” they said.
According to the researchers, the study shows that the novel TPC is an effective, well tolerated anti-ageing ingredient.
Source: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
2010, Issue 9, pages 108 – 116
Synergistic action of a triple peptide complex on an essential extra-cellular matrix protein exhibits significant anti-ageing benefits
Adam John Byrne, Tamara Al-Badar, Deirdre Kerrigan, Sinead Hickey, Aurelie Laloeuf and Anthony Vincent Rawlings