Palmitoyl glycine and cocoyl alanine were studied using a number of in vitro and ex vivo techniques that illustrated their potential as new anti-aging actives, according to scientists at ingredients supplier SEPPIC which manufacturers the products.
The researchers used DNA arrays and quantitative polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) experiments to investigate the affect of the two actives on gene expression specifically genes known to be affected by age, as well as using human skin explants and fibroblast cultures.
Early on in the study it became clear that the two actives did not have the same mode of action and therefore each was investigated singularly, explained the scientists.
Palmitoyl glycine (PG) prevented aging-induced gene expression involved in the inflammation pathways and the extra cellular matrix-degrading enzyme MMP-1 and tenascin, which is involved in the remodelling of the extra cellular matrix.
Cocoyl alanine (CA), conversely, had a restorative effect on the longevity marker sirtuin, as well as genes associated with cell-cell communication
This suggests the active can maintain cell and skin tissues in a healthy condition by delaying ageing associated changes.
The team also investigated the ability of PG to affect the microcirculation of the skin as this could have a radiance-giving effect often sought after in anti-ageing cosmetics.
According to the study, in vitro tests illustrated that PG promoted new vessel formation and these results were backed up by the use of skin explants where PG application to the skin led to an improvement in luminosity.
New prospects for fight against ageing
The researchers concluded that together the actives had a complementary effect and therefore led to both a regulation and restoration effect on some of the main ageing-associated disorders.
Acting on tissue architecture, cell-cell interaction, cell longevity and the extra cellular matrix, the actives are ‘new prospects’ in the fight against skin ageing, they concluded.
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Two new lipoaminoacids with complementary modes of action: new prospects to fight out against skin ageing
S Dumont, L Cattuzzato, G Trouvé, N Chevrot and C Stoltz