Q&A: Burt's Bees Head of Clinical & Scientific Affairs' insights into AAD 2024 research study presentations

By Cassandra Stern

- Last updated on GMT

"There is growing emphasis in 3 areas - skin inclusivity, skin minimalism and skin microbiome - and we are innovating our product portfolio to ensure consumers and practitioners have access to nature-based and delightful options in these spaces to support skin and overall well-being," said Dr. Gunt. © Anastasia Korchagina Getty Images
"There is growing emphasis in 3 areas - skin inclusivity, skin minimalism and skin microbiome - and we are innovating our product portfolio to ensure consumers and practitioners have access to nature-based and delightful options in these spaces to support skin and overall well-being," said Dr. Gunt. © Anastasia Korchagina Getty Images

Related tags Burt's Bees Acne skin microbiome Sensitive skin

CosmeticsDesign spoke with Hemali Gunt, Ph.D., for her key takeaways from the company's three research studies presented at this year's American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting.

In March of this year, Hemali Gunt, Ph.D., Burt's Bees Head of Clinical & Scientific Affairs presented a trio of the company's latest research studies and explained their findings at the American Academy of Dermatology's Annual Meeting. The studies examined the efficacy of different natural topical ingredients and their efficacy on skin conditions including the effectiveness of aloe vera and rice extract as a moisturizing treatment and on the skin microbiome in subjects with sensitive skin, as well as the impact of daily use of a topical pre-biotic on the skin's microbiome and acne. 

For details regarding the studies, their findings, and the potential industry impact of Burt's Bee's research, we spoke to Dr. Gunt for her insights. 

CDU: Can you share some brief background about your professional experience, Burt’s Bees, and your relationship with the cosmetics and personal care product industries? 

Hemali Gunt, Ph.D. (HG)​: I have been a part of the Burt’s Bees R&D group for almost 13 years, leading fundamental research and product research with an emphasis on developing strong evidence for safety and efficacy behind our skin and lip care products. Prior to Burt’s Bees, I worked as a clinical scientist, designing and conducting clinical trials for a wide variety of products ranging from personal care, OTC to drugs and devices – the experience was enriching!

The personal care and cosmetics market is vast, but the industry, as I see it, is still relatively small. The community embraces connections, transparency, partnerships, and collaborations. It is one of the most dynamic and innovative industries which blends art and science. At Burt’s Bees, we strive to perfect this blend to drive the brand forward and expand our product offerings to support skin health across all skin types.  

CDU: Can you provide a brief description each of the three research studies presented by Burt’s Bees at 2024 AAD?

Effectiveness of aloe vera and rice extract-containing moisturizing treatment in improving and maintaining barrier function and hydration in xerotic skin 

This study involved kinetic assessment of skin barrier recovery in participants with moderately dry skin treated with Burt’s Bees Hydrating Face & Body Cream, a nature-based moisturizing cream containing aloe and rice extract, compared against untreated control.  

Our clinical study measured continuous, significant improvement in skin moisturization, skin barrier function and visible skin dryness with Burt’s Bees Hydrating Face & Body Cream treatment for 2 weeks. Moreover, the effects of this topical treatment sustained even after product usage was discontinued for 7 days. The product, therefore, can be used as part of a daily skin care routine for those with dry, sensitive skin to restore and maintain skin health.  

Daily use of prebiotic-containing topical formulation balances and restores skin microbiome in subjects with mild to moderate acne 

This baseline-controlled study evaluated the effect of Burt’s Bees Skin Balancing Gel Cream formulated with prebiotic in participants with non-cystic acne through lesion counts and skin microbiome assessments.  

This baseline-controlled, 6 weeks usage study, tracked the visual and microbial changes in participants with non-cystic acne using a gentle cleanser and topical moisturizer containing skin-friendly prebiotic. Dermatologist grading results showed a significant reduction in lesion count and skin microbiome evaluations showed a directional decrease in the relative abundance of Cutibacterium acnes. These results indicate that the use of a prebiotic-containing moisturizer may support skin health in mild-moderate acne population without the use of acne medications.  

A multi-functional moisturizer containing aloe vera and rice extract maintains a diverse and balanced facial skin microbiome in sensitive skin 

This study investigated the use of Burt’s Bees Hydrating Face & Body Cream to reinforce the skin moisture barrier and improve overall skin condition in female participants with sensitive skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis or rosacea. 

This study conducted in participants with atopic dermatitis or rosacea, using a nature-based moisturizer for 6 weeks showed that topical treatment significantly improved skin moisturization and visually improved overall skin quality while supporting the sensitive skin microbiome without causing any disruption to the skin barrier. 

CDU: How can manufacturers and suppliers to the cosmetics and personal beauty care product industry use the takeaways from these studies and apply these findings to ingredient formulation processes?  

HG​: Manufacturers and suppliers can use the data presentations at AAD 2024 as evidence of the efficacy of nature-based products. Also, they can use these parameters as a guide for further investigating and unlocking mechanisms and pathways for their ingredients.

Burt’s Bees has decades of experience in delivering nature-based products to address common dermatological issues and as consumers are continually more interested in these products, our research and clinical studies can help serve as assurance for ingredient and product safety and efficacy.  

CDU: What are Burt’s Bees plans for further innovation and development in the natural ingredient space for cosmetic and personal care product formulations? 

HG​: Burt’s Bees has been formulating safe and effective, nature-based skin care products for 40 years and we are honored to be recognized as a #1 Dermatologist Recommended Natural Skin Care Brand. There is growing emphasis in 3 areas - skin inclusivity, skin minimalism and skin microbiome - and we are innovating our product portfolio to ensure consumers and practitioners have access to nature-based and delightful options in these spaces to support skin and overall well-being. As always, we continue to demonstrate the Proven Power of Nature through future investigative research and product innovations.

CDU: Anything else to add?  

HG​: Burt’s Bees is synonymous with natural ingredients and sustainability, and we are focused on championing and innovating through these lenses. With the body of science we have developed and continue to explore, Burt’s Bees is dedicated to addressing top skin care needs and providing effective, nature-based solutions. We are looking forward to all that is ahead and will continue to keep you updated on what’s next. 

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