Earlier this year, skin care company Arctiva Wellness launched “a breakthrough in eczema and psoriasis treatment for the almost forty million Americans suffering from ineffective solutions,” according to a company press release. The newly launched product line consists of two “clean, steroid-free skin care products that are the first to combine clinically proven active ingredients with proprietary HYDROSURF glycolipid technology and other natural, cruelty-free ingredients,” the release said.
The products, one indicated for eczema and the other for psoriasis, contain active ingredients like colloidal oatmeal in the eczema cream and salicylic acid in the psoriasis cream to target common symptoms of each condition. According to the company, ARCTIVA’s product line is the only one to feature its “proprietary HYDROSURF glycolipid technology, a powerful blend of fermented ingredients with origins in Antarctica's glacial lakes.”
To learn more about the potential impact of this product launch on manufacturers and suppliers to the cosmetics and personal care product industries, as well as the research, development, and formulation process for the ARCTIVA product line and company’s proprietary HYDROSURF glycolipid technology, CosmeticsDesign interviewed Vic Peroni, COO of Arctiva Wellness, for his insights.
CDU: Can you share some background information about the product’s formulation and development process?
Vic Peroni (VP): ARCTIVA was born out of science and a passion for deliver transformative products for people suffering from life-altering skin conditions. It started with our scientists’ studying potential uses for our glycolipid technology.
The technology’s all-natural organic molecules are produced through a proprietary fermentation process from microorganisms, discovered in nature, including the glacial lakes of Antarctica. Research and testing confirmed that the fermented ingredients lowered surface tension between liquids, which makes them ideal for use in products targeting dry skin conditions such as eczema, dermatitis and even flareups of psoriasis.
After an intense phase of research and development, the ARCTIVA product line was launched featuring a steroid-free formulation of synergistic ingredients.
The products were tested through third-party studies and the results were impressive; people who were suffering from eczema and psoriasis reported significant improvements in symptoms. The independent studies concluded with some of the following compelling results, including 92% of users experienced calmer, more moisturized skin, and significantly reduced eczema symptoms after using the cream, and 8 out of 10 participants from the independent study reported less flaky, redness, sloughing and itching within two weeks.
Additionally, after one day of application, 89% of users saw smoother skin, 81% experienced less flaking, and 89% itched less.
In the psoriasis study, 84% of users experienced calmer, more moisturized skin and significantly reduced psoriasis symptoms after using the cream, and 7 out of 10 participants from the independent study reported less flaky, redness, sloughing and itching within two weeks. Further, after one day of application, 88% of users saw smoother skin, 79% experienced less flaking, and 88% itched less.
The results continued to improve with continued ongoing daily use. They demonstrate that ARCTIVA products are safe and effective steroid-free options for alleviating eczema and psoriasis symptoms.
In an industry overrun by disappointment and frustration, many products mask skin conditions without getting to the real source of the skin irritation. We wanted to create clean-label, medical-grade skincare products that provide relief beyond the surface. Through the unmatched power of microbiology, the ARCTIVA brand is delivering life-changing results to people who suffer from skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.
What started out as an exploratory mission into the scientific applications of these microscopic organisms has turned into one of the biggest advancements in medicated skincare. We are scientists at heart with a mission in mind; changing the way the world treats skin conditions, starting with bio-based formulas that help users win the fight against psoriasis and eczema.
CDU: What is the potential impact of this product launch on manufacturers and suppliers to the cosmetics and personal care product industries?
VP: Managing skin conditions involves being aware of ingredients that cause toxicity and irritation. Unfortunately, some of the most common treatments for skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis contain ingredients most consumers would rather not use.
These include fragrances, sulfates, parabens, phthalates, and chemical-based surfactants to name a few. All these ingredients can have a negative impact on the skin and potentially be a trigger for such conditions.
Topical steroids are often prescribed to treat psoriasis or eczema. However, many users find they either don’t work, or cause harsh side effects. These can range from worsening the skin condition to thinner skin and even high blood pressure.
The ARCTIVA launch provides manufacturers and suppliers an example of effective, clean-label skincare product formulations that still provide medical-grade performance. All ARCTIVA products are vegan, steroid-free, cruelty-free and contain none of the ingredients listed above.
The products are designed for psoriasis and eczema sufferers looking for clean formulations that work, without any harmful ingredients. The clean-label skincare line has received both the seal of acceptance from the National Eczema Association and the Seal of Recognition from the National Psoriasis Foundation. It is recommended by dermatologists and pediatricians, and safe for daily use.
The launch also highlights the successful use of a new patented ingredient in medicated skincare products. ARCTIVA formulations are enhanced with HYDROSURF glycolipid technology— a powerful blend of fermented ingredients discovered in the depths of nature, including the glacial lakes of Antarctica. HYDROSURF boosts absorption and water mobility, delivering relief to the source of pain and irritation, and leaving users with healthy and hydrated skin.
CDU: Can you share some background information about HYDROSURF glycolipid technology, including any studies performed to demonstrate the ingredient’s effectiveness?
VP: HYDROSURF is a glycolipid technology found exclusively in ARCTIVA skincare products. Glycolipids are bio-based ingredients naturally produced through fermentation. They have lower toxicity and less risk for any irritation compared to commonly used chemical alternatives.
The specific blend of fermented ingredients in HYDROSURF has a wide range of properties and benefits that makes it ideal for use in skincare products—especially those targeting dry skin conditions like eczema, dermatitis, or psoriasis. HYDROSURF improves the hydrology of the skin through increased water mobility and circulation of water-based ingredients.
It enhances the skin's absorption and responsiveness to active ingredients. It also replaces chemical-based surfactants and improves the overall texture and sensory experience of the products.
All these factors help target the affected skin areas more efficiently, providing deep relief to the source of irritation.
Unlike other products with ingredients that sit on the surface, HYDROSURF increases absorption and water mobility to provide superior hydration and moisture. It helps deliver relief to the source of pain and irritation and leave users with hydrated, healthy skin.
CDU: Were there any challenges to the product’s formulation that needed to be addressed prior to launch? If so, what were those challenges and what solutions were implemented to address them?
VP: In general, one of the biggest challenges in R&D of personal care products is optimizing new formulations. This is especially challenging when creating new clean-label products with natural ingredients.
A recent survey found that more than 70% of personal care formulators don’t feel like they have enough time in the lab to test and optimize formulas.
We were able to overcome these challenges by utilizing our team of highly skilled formulation experts. They have extensive experience in fermentation and clean ingredients—including bio-based ingredients for personal care products.
Their knowledge of the proprietary production process, ingredients and their mechanisms of action ensured the development of optimal combinations for premium formulations. It enabled them to create the ARCTIVA clean-label product line with strategically selected ingredients that work synergistically to deliver unprecedented results and ensure the highest quality in stability, texture, and sensory appeal.
Our formulation team is dedicated extensive research to curate high-quality, condition-focused ingredients, enabling us to provide a much-needed solution that doesn't require a prescription. The goal was to develop clean-label, steroid-free skincare products that deliver medical-grade results.
CDU: Are there any plans for further innovation in this area?
VP: ARCTIVA’s current lines of psoriasis and eczema creams are just the beginning. We are consistently focused on expanding with new offerings that fit into the end-user’s lifestyle and ultimately treat their skin conditions.
We just expanded the ARCTIVA eczema and psoriasis product lines with travel-size versions. We’re also in the process of launching condition-specific shampoos and complementary body wash and facial cleansers that are ideal for all skin types, but especially sensitive skin. Lastly, we are developing products for other common skin conditions.
While some products are formulated with skin-condition-specific ingredients, all formulations, including the complementary lines, will feature our proprietary HYDROSURF glycolipid technology.