While exhibitors showed a variety of new and existing ingredients, specific ingredient types were popular across the convention center. Below are three of the major trends CosmeticsDesign saw at this year’s show.
Upcycle, upcycle, upcycle
Going hand-in-hand with consumer demand for more sustainable personal care products, a number of suppliers presented ingredients derived from the waste of other production processes, mostly those of the food industry.
Among those ingredients, AE Chemie showcased a preservative derived from the leaves and trunks of banana trees, which President Ed Armamento said are typically throw away. The ingredient is a preservative and disinfectant, but also contains bioactives which fight microorganisms and organic or inorganic substrates from any source.
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In the realm of color cosmetics, Micro Powder, Inc. showed a micro powder derived from the husks of rice, removed during food processing and discarded. During a presentation, Global Sales Director Diane Smith said the powder could be made in regular or irregular shapes and in spherical or ovular forms.
David Ahdoot from DD Chemo, which was showcasing their own upcycled ingredient, said many suppliers have been upcycling for years, but it has only been in recent years with the rise of consumer interest in which advertising that process is a draw for brands.
SPF protection and boosting
Among the finalists in the CEW Supplier Award were two mineral SPFs and, the winner from Grant Industries, an which improves the greasy feel of organic SPFs, among other functions.
Outside of the competition, many companies were showcasing SPF ingredients, largely zinc-based mineral ingredients, or ingredients with SPF boosting benefit
EverCare, one of the CEW Supplier Award finalists, presented and mineral SPF and UVA protection without a white caste, which is often a concern for consumes. The other SPF finalist MANA presented an SPF protection in a serum form, which is quick absorbing, moisturizing and provides protection.
Many suppliers showcased SPF boosting ingredients, including Delavie Sciences whose ingredient, still in testing, was derived from space-testing organic materials.
Dry and wet formula functionality
Consumers are showing increasing interest in dry formulas, like shampoo bars and SPF sticks, and companies have expressed interest in the products as ways to decrease necessary packaging and decrease cost of shipping water-based products.
Suppliers presented several ingredients which can be used in either liquid or water formulas. Beraca presented their Beraclay line of natural, performance ingredients in both liquid emulsions and solid foundation sticks.
Salvano Encapsulated Technologies also presented solid-formula capable ingredients, including a powdered fragrance which is only activated once it interacts with sweat or sweat-like compounds.
Distribution partner IMCD showcased a number of waterless prototypes which are market ready. Director of Communication Ella Pochay said the company which also does liquid formulas, is ready to help companies transition to waterless products and hope they take on the challenge of the newly-popular product type.