Naturex develops biomimetic botanical extracts for cosmetics with NaDES technology
The Avignon-based firm succeeded in extracting plant metabolites with a revolutionary method that reproduces the plant’s intracellular environment by replicating certain physiological plant mechanisms.
This 100% natural process improves the extraction of bioactive compounds and preserves the most essential elements of plants for superior cosmetic benefits, according to Naturex R&D Manager for Personal Care, Alexis Lavaud.
“We have developed biomimetic botanical extracts. These botanical extracts are obtained through a technology that mimicks the strategies plants adopt to solubilize essential molecules for survival under stressful conditions,” he tells CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.
“A key element for the personal care industry, these NaDES boost the phytoactive content in liquid extracts.”
Alexis adds that due to the strong demand from consumers and manufacturers for biodegradable, non-volatile and low-toxicity solvents, NaDES can be considered as a new generation of extraction fluids for which Naturex is paving the way.
“This promising breakthrough technology anticipates new challenges and answers current expectations in the cosmetic market,” he says.
NaDES technology
NaDES is defined as a precise combination of compounds whose melting point is drastically lower than those of each of the individual components. NaDES are a combination of at least two of these molecules, including organic acids, amino acids, quaternary ammonium, polyol and sugars.
“Although scientists have only recently shown interest in deep eutectic solvents, cell life has long depended on the principle of NaDES,” explains Alexis.
“This concept was named ‘eutectigenesis’ in the field of botanical extraction. Indeed, NaDES form a fluid in plant cells enabling them to maintain their integrity and withstand harsh environmental challenges including drought, desiccation, and extreme temperatures (heat or freezing).”
Eutectigenesis is defined as the use of a specific combination of metabolites in the formation of a NaDES, which also improves the recovery of active metabolites.
Lavaud explains that new cosmetic actives can be obtained thanks to this superior ability to extract active metabolites and obtain novel phytochemical fingerprints when compared to conventional solvents.
“Future actives are in progress with this technology, and we plan to offer our customers tailored novel phytochemical fingerprints that conventional solvents cannot generate,” he adds.
