Soliance formulation technology hints at improved self-tanners

By Ameann DeJohn

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Odor, Amino acid

Ingredients player Soliance has developed an enhanced dihdroxyAcetone, DHA technology that is said to remove odors and formulation limitations for self-tanners.

Self tanning products are a challenge for the consumer due to the smell and uneven often orange color that is left on the skin. New improved formulations have promised a more even tone but the smell generated from the reaction to the DHA on the skin still remains.

Self tanning smell is counteracted

Soliance has developed Vegetan FL Creation, which claims to neutralize the smell caused by DHA on the skin. This ingredient is a pure liquid DHA that uses a renewable plant source and bioethanol. It is a 100 percent natural and renewable material.

Due to the liquid presentation there are no handling issues from the powder transfer. It is easy to incorporate in the emulsion hydrophilic phase of the formulation process.

Soliance worked with CPL Aromas, a UK-based international fragrance house, to develop Aromaguard, which is found in Vegetan FL Creation and has already been reported about by the CosmeticsDesign team. The combination of these technologies combats the smell produced during the Malliard reaction, (or skin tanning effect) from the self tanning process.

This odor is commonly associated with self tanners when the DHA reacts with amines, peptides and amino acids in the stratum corneum layer of the skin. This innovative counteractive technology known as Aromaguard fragrance technology, reduces the levels of malodour molecules by counteracting the molecules.

Self tanning polymer antioxidant extender

Vegetan Premium, an Ecocert and preservative-free DHA, maximizes the sun-kissed look. This biocompatible ingredient has an allomelanin-like polymer, which is a brown to black pigment that is naturally produced by plants and microorganisms.

This polymer is obtained by a patented caffeic acid polymerisation that enhances the tanning in the skin for a longer lasting tan, while the ingredient itself is derived from wheat and sugar beet but is gluten free.

There are a few self tanning products on the market with these technologies and many more are in development.

DHA has been around since the early 1920’s and has been approved by the FDA since the mid 1970’s and with continued innovation the self tan may last a lot longer

Related topics: Formulation & Science

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