Most innovative skin care ingredient launches so far in 2011

By Pooja Kondhia

- Last updated on GMT

As one of the biggest categories in the cosmetics industry, skin care is driven by the development of new increasingly functional and sophisticated ingredients; building on this we bring you some of the most innovative and interesting ingredient launches so far in 2011.

The first launch comes from Japanese cosmetics giant Shiseido, which discovered a new anti-aging skin care ingredient earlier in the year. Studies found that use of 1-piperidine propionic acid (1PP), in high concentrations are effective in controlling the aging of the skin.

Research carried out by the company found that the amino acid derivative 1PP controlled damage caused to the skin by the protein serpin b3.

Additionally, the study findings claim that 1PP is particularly effective in inhibiting the production of serpin b3 and in rejuvenating damaged skin.

1PP is expected to be used in anti-aging skincare products in the future.

Promoting youthfulness

In a similar vein, a study conducted by scientists working at NuSkin enterprises and published earlier in the year, in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, states that the compound Salicin regulates a number of skin genes to promote youthfulness.

The scientists identified genes, that code for proteins related to the skin aging process, which they call ‘youth gene clusters’.

This included proteins such as those associated with hyaluronic acid, which plays a role in skin hydration, and genes that affect the production and maintenance of structural proteins such as collagen.

According to results from the in vitro tests, salicin up-regulates HAS1 and HAS2, both involved in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, and down-regulates genes responsible for the degradation of hyaluronic acid.

In addition, genes that code for collagen were up-regulated as well as those known to regulate collagen assembly and cross linking.

The gene MMP9, which is known to be involved in the degradation of collagen, was down-regulated, according to the researchers.

Sensitivity reduction

Likewise, Alban Muller has developed a new cosmetic ingredient specifically for sensitive skin; Cytokalmine reduces the secretion of inflammatory cytokines as well as the overproduction of free radicals.

Consequentially, Cytokalmine also protects the skin from the effects of premature aging.

Alban Muller explained it is a dry extract of Carthaginian berry (Punica granatum), concentrated in polyphenols, particularly in tannins (punicalagin) and ellagic derivative, and is stabilized in a maltitol carrier.

It can be used in skin and body care applications, as well as for eye contour products, anti-aging products, and sun care, as it helps provide sensitive skin with a soothing effect as well as reinforcing resistance to external aggressions.

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