Soliance and CPL Aromas launch odour softener for self-tanning ingredient

By Simon Pitman

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Chemistry, Sun tanning

French cosmetic and personal care ingredient company Soliance has partnered with CPL Aromas to create a solution to mask odours found in self-tanning formulations.

The companies say the development of the technology targets the odour that is generated as part of the Maillard reaction, which is the chemical reaction that turns the skin browner during the self-tanning process.

This browning and the subsequent odour are triggered by the presence of the chemical Dihydroxacetone (DHA), which is derived from plant sources such as sugar beet and sugar cane and is fermented by using glycerin.

Vegetan FL Creation

Called Vegetan FL Creation, the solution specifically covers the very distinctive odours created mostly from the fermentation process.

During the research and development phase of the new fragrance, researchers identified the key odour-causing molecules created during the thermal desorption as a part of the sunless tanning process.

The research team then set about neutralizing the specific odour of these molecules using the CPL technology Aromaguard, which was originally developed as a range of products to specially mask undesirable ‘malodours’.

Building on CPL's Aromaguard technology

The technology was first applied to neutralizing the ‘tell-tale’ odour associated with self-tanning products back in 2009, when it was described as the biggest breakthrough in self-tanning technology for a decade.

The result of the collaborative work between the two companies is a blend of DHA, Aromaguard, agrosurfactant and solubizers which is said to create a premix that is ready to use, stable and can be easily formulated, even in cold phase.

The resulting Vegetan FL Creation has subsequently been tested on 12 volunteers, where the testing was claimed to show the same colouration performance, while all the users reported the absence of any unpleasant odour.

Related topics: Formulation & Science

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