Cognis launches anti-dandruff hair care ingredient

By Simon Pitman

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags Hair care ingredient Dandruff

Cognis active ingredients division Laboratories Serobiologiques has launched a new natural-based active hair care ingredient that targets sensitive scalps and dandruff conditions by regulating sebum production.

Sanicapyl has been developed with the aim of helping manufacturers develop hair care products for sensitive scalps by ensuring hair remains in good condition while preventing an uncomfortable and itchy scalp as well as excessive oil.

The LS research and development team worked around the principle that excessive sebum production leads to oily hair and scalp conditions, which in turn leads to bacterial proliferation or hyperkeratosis, precursors to dandruff.

Conventional anti-dandruff ingredients have relied on synthetic molecules that are designed to reduce the spread of dandruff, but while they are effective at this function, the Cognis development team points out that they are not effective at regulating the production of sebum.

Targeting excessive sebum production

As a result, it is claimed that many conventional anti-dandruff treatments do not reduce itching caused by the excessive sebum, which also leaves the hair oily and lackluster.

Sanicapyl is based on a selection of natural extracts, including fruit, as well as a piper negrum pepper and inga alba bark, together with sodium lauroyl lactylate and butylene glycol for use in shampoos, conditioners and lotions and is also designed for all hair types.

While working to reduce sebum production, it is said to leave hair with visibly enhanced results, while also soothing the scalp and reducing the flaky dead skin that is associated with dandruff.

Moisturising and anti-inflammatory results

The LS research team said that its in vitro testing also showed the ingredient to have a moisturising and anti-inflammatory activity, while clinical studies highlighted its capability to reduce itching and regulate sebum.

The ultimate clinical test for the product was the regulation of dandruff, which the research team was proven with a one per cent dosage of the active in a shampoo.

The clinical trial results showed that that this formulation was just as effective at reducing the appearance of dandruff as a shampoo containing one per cent of a benchmark ingredient.

Anti-microbial properties

Further testing also showed that the active has significant anti-microbial properties on two bacteria associated with itching scalp and the manifestation of dandruff – malassezia furfur and malassezia globosa.

Back in 2007 the genome for the dandruff fungus was sequenced, which has had a significant effect in the research and development of more effective anti-dandruff treatments.

The discovery was made by a group of Procter & Gamble scientists who claimed the discovery would shed light on the mechanism behind the condition.

The fungus, Malassezia globosa (M. globosa),​ lives on human skin and feeds off external lipids secreted naturally in sebum on the scalp.

Symptoms of dandruff occur when the presence of sebum, and M. globosa​ are combined with the hosts susceptibility for an inflammatory response.

Related topics Formulation & Science Hair Care

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