According to the Italy-headquartered company, the ingredient, Xilogel, which is an extract of Tamarindus indicia, has strong anti-ageing and hydrating properties with a good sensory feel.
Similar to hyaluronic acid
Indena refers to Xilogel as a ‘green alternative’ to hyaluronic acid, which according to Indena’s scientific communications officer Giada Maramaldi is due in part to the structural similarities between the ingredients.
“Both Xilogel and hyaluronic acid are polysaccharides although they do have different molecular weights. Xilogel has a molecular weight of around 650 000 daltons whereas hyaluronic acid can range between 5,000 to several million daltons [the unit used to measure molecular weight],” she told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.
Like hyaluronic acid, Xilogel is positioned as a moisturising and anti-ageing ingredient.
“The clinical biological effects have been documented and they behave in a similar manner,” Maramaldi said; although she added that the tamarind extract performed better than the hyaluronic acid on short term hydration of the skin.
The ‘green’ aspect of the ingredient is related to its natural source, Maramaldi explained.
The extract is as it is found in the tamarind seed, she explained, it is simply a matter of extraction and purification. This is unlike hyaluronic acid, the majority of which is produced using biotechnology, she said.
Indena also said Xilogel has useful characteristics within a formulation and can help stabilise emulsions and form a gel when added to water.