ISP’s new ingredient claims to reinforce skin barrier

International Specialty Products (ISP) claims that the ingredient, a flax seed extract, can help restore the skin barrier which can be compromised by environmental stresses especially in aging skin.

“Lipidic homeostasis is crucial to helping consumers maintain well-hydrated and well-protected skin,” ​global marketing director for skin care at ISP Joel Mantelin said.

Lipid synthesis and transportation ​

According to the company, Lipigenine can help stimulate the synthesis and transportation of the intercellular lipids, which along with the corneocytes make up the stratum corneum.

Effective production of the skin lipids (by the golgi bodies) and transportation (by the lamellar bodies) is necessary for the maintenance of a strong skin barrier, and according to ISP this can diminish with age.

According to the company’s tests using skin biopsies, one percent Lipigenine can increase both the presence of skin lipids in the stratum coreneum, as well as the number of golgi bodies in keratinocytes.

After synthesis, the lipids then need to be stored and transported to the stratum corneum by the lamellar bodies and ISP claims that Lipigenine appears to increase the number of lamellar bodies as well as favoring the deposition of the lipids in the stratum corneum.

In vivo ​tests ​

The company also tested the ingredient in vivo​, investigating the effects of applying the ingredient at 1.5 percent twice a day on the forearm for just under a month.

At day 21 the skin barrier was stressed by the application of sodium laureth sulfate, which is known to reduce the stratum corneum and attack skin lipids.

Following the application of Lipigenine, the reduction in stratum corneum thickness was significantly smaller than with the placebo, the company claims. In addition, scores for radiance, hydration, tonicity and elasticity were improved in 70 percent of the volunteers, it said.

Consumers with dry and sensitive skin ​

ISP claims that its new ingredient has been designed for use in products for dry and sensitive skin, and those claiming to counter the effects of daily exposure to detergents and soaps.