Composed of peptides found in the bovine colostrum (the first milk produced by a cow after giving birth), Nudremyl can be incorporated into topical products designed to reduce scarring and help skin heal after abrasive procedures, as well as anti-aging formulations.
PL Thomas’ head of cosmeceuticals Alda Brandao explained how this new class of after-procedure cosmetics was a growing trend within the industry.
“Some years ago, no one thought to get a claim related to a dermatological procedure. Now, there is a real trend to go to the dermatologist for laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion and peels, and there is a need to serve this market.”
Indeed, a number of products released in the last year, including the joint venture between Allergan and Clinique, promise to serve this market with formulations that help either to prepare the skin pre-procedure or help it recover post-procedure.
Focus on fibroblasts
PL Thomas’ new ingredient claims to help skin heal, by targeting the fibroblasts, a multitasking cell located in the dermis.
According to director of medical and scientific affairs Vladimir Badmaev, the fibroblasts play a role in collagen and elastin production as well as helping to nourish the hair follicle and build up the blood supply to the skin.
Through working on the fibroblasts, Nudremyl is able to alter the collagen and therefore the appearance of the skin, Badmaev explained.
“The skin’s scar function is to close the wound as quickly as possible, which leads to a very obvious scar,” he said.
The way to get around this, according to Badmaev, is to relax the collagen and to close the wound more gradually to make a less visible scar.
According to the company, Nudremyl can increase the metabolic activity of human fibroblasts and reduce the fibroblast dependent collagen contraction; making the collagen more relaxed and allowing for a less defined scar.
PL Thomas also claims Nudremyl can help smooth the appearance of wrinkles and promote younger looking skin.