Natural ingredients drive anti-ageing formulation

Many of the ingredients have been used for generations as part of traditional medical and care regimes. Ingredients inspired by the Ayurvedic traditions of India and traditional Chinese medicine are becoming increasingly common in the market place. Ingredients with antioxidant properties feature highly in this year's formulations, for example the blackberry leaf extract currently undergoing testing by Symrise, a Germany-based ingredients supplier. According to the company the extract has antioxidant properties similar to that of green tea, makin it perfect for anti-ageing formulations. In addition, the research suggests it has an inhibitory effect on matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), extracellular proteins that degrade matrix proteins such as collagen, necessary for the strength and elasticity of the skin. Another German player Evonik Goldschmidt, previously known as Degussa Personal Care, released its range of natural actives earlier this month. The TEGO Turmerone ingredient - distilled turmeric oil - is known for its antioxidant activity and improves skin radiance and tone, according to the company. In addition the company has highlighted the TEGO Arjuna ingredient as perfect for anti-ageing formulations, claiming that it decreases the depth and number of wrinkles, moisturises the skin and reinforces its barrier function. The ingredients in Evonik's range have been sourced from native Indian plants and the company has partnered a local Indian company to identify and source the ingredients. Such relationships are becoming more common in the industry as the demand for natural actives continues. Marine extracts are also benefiting from the trend for natural ingredients and one of 2007's particularly quirky releases was Norwegian biotech firm Aqua BioTechnology's ingredient zonase. Zonase belongs to a family of enzymes known as hatching enzymes; their biological function is to degrade the eggshell without harming the fish larvae inside. Research revealed that Zonase acts on human keratin - exposed only in dead and damaged skin cells - in very similar ways to the fish eggshell protein, working to slough away the dead cells and rejuvenate the skin, according to the company. Crucially, unlike other protein degrading enzymes the enzyme does not harm living cells, which allows for its use as an ingredient in skin care products, explained ABT. Marine ingredients have been gaining ground in the sector for some time, with a number of ingredient launches at the In-Cosmetics event in April this year. Speaking at the event, marketing manager for In-Cosmetics, Cathy Laporte, told CosmeticsDesign.com​,​ "Marine based activity is obviously a growing trend in the cosmetics industry, made apparent by the number of ingredient manufacturers promoting such products at the show".​