The research, funded by and conducted at the Universidad de Antioquia in Colombia, focused on improving extraction methods and evaluating how the resulting pectins perform in basic gel prototypes. The findings may offer US manufacturers and suppliers plant-based, upcycled alternatives to synthetic humectants.
Optimized extraction from fruit by-products
The research team tested extraction conditions using traditional heating and microwave-assisted methods. Their work centered on turning granadilla peel and mesocarp, or the fruit’s middle layer, which are typically discarded, into functional cosmetic ingredients.
“Optimal extraction was achieved with citric acid under microwave irradiation at 60 °C for 15 minutes, yielding 45.23%,” the researchers reported.
The authors noted that this method is more efficient than the other conditions tested and offered a viable path for future process scaling. Because the approach uses citric acid and moderate temperatures, it may align with supplier interest in low-impact processing.
Ingredient characteristics that support formulation
The pectin obtained through the optimized process showed a chemical profile consistent with gelling and film-forming behavior.
“The pectin exhibited low moisture (0.13%), acidity (0.42%), methoxyl content (9.05%), and degree of esterification (57.6%), along with high swelling capacity (12.46 mL/g) and water-retention capacity (12.26%),” the researchers reported.
These characteristics indicate that the pectin binds water effectively and creates structure within a gel. According to the authors, “Pectins are known for their water-binding ability, gelling capacity, and contribution to texture and stability in cosmetic systems.”
Prototype gels demonstrate early stability
To assess practical application, the team incorporated the extracted pectin into eight simple gel formulations and monitored them over seven days. “The resulting gel formulation was homogeneous and stable,” the authors wrote.
The researchers identified one prototype, referred to as Formulation 8, as the most promising based on viscosity, pH behavior, and overall appearance. Specifically, researchers noted, “this formulation maintained its organoleptic characteristics, viscosity, and pH within optimal ranges under thermal and environmental stress conditions, without phase separation or sensory deterioration.”
The study reports no phase separation or sensory decline under the test conditions, and also includes laboratory assays designed to estimate moisturizing benefits. “In vitro assays confirmed significant moisturizing activity,” the researchers wrote. The team attributed these results to the water-retention capacity identified during characterization.
Potential role in natural formulation strategies
As interest in natural, traceable, and upcycled ingredients grows, the authors propose granadilla pectin as a multifunctional biopolymer.
“These findings highlight P. ligularis pectins as sustainable biopolymers with potential as natural gelling and moisturizing agents in cosmetic products,” the researchers wrote.
Future work, according to the study, should focus on longer-term stability studies, extraction scale-up, and clinical testing to understand performance on skin under real-use conditions.
Source: Cosmetics
2025, 12, 261. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060261
“Optimized Extraction of Passiflora ligularis Pectins: Characterization and Application in Moisturizing Cosmetic Products."
Authors: Restrepo-Zapata, M.C., et al.
