IFF is positioning its betaine ingredient, GENENCARE OSMS BA, as a multifunctional solution for hydration, barrier support, and protein stabilization in skin care. According to the company, recent studies show that osmolytes can strengthen tight junctions between skin cells, improve water retention, and enhance resistance to environmental stressors.
“Osmolytes such as betaine have been shown to increase the expression of tight junction proteins,” Carole Gherardi, market segment lead for home and personal care at IFF told CosmeticsDesign. “This leads to better moisturized skin and reduced visible dryness.”
Betaine’s mechanism of action, penetrating keratinocytes and regulating water flow through osmosis, sets it apart from more conventional moisturizers like hyaluronic acid and squalane, which act primarily on the skin’s surface.
Chemist Confessions formulates with IFF’s betaine
Indie brand Chemist Confessions recently reformulated its Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel using IFF’s betaine ingredient. The chemist-founded company cited improved skin barrier support and formulation flexibility as key drivers.
“From a skin benefits perspective, it was a no-brainer,” Gloria Lu, chemist and cofounder of Chemist Confessions, told CD. “Betaine enhances Aquafix’s long-term skin barrier support beautifully.”
The ingredient’s water-soluble crystalline format allowed for easy integration into the brand’s water-based serum without affecting color, odor, or viscosity. “As a bonus,” Lu added, “it actually helped reduce the overall stickiness of the formula.”
Lu noted that while betaine performed well in their formulation, it is not suitable for high-pH systems above pH 8.
Hydration solutions aligned with stress protection and sustainability
Beyond moisturization, osmolytes are being explored for their ability to protect the skin under stressors such as dehydration, heat, and UV exposure. Gherardi explained that these molecules act as “chemical chaperones,” preserving protein structure and preventing cellular shrinkage.
“Organic osmolytes activate specific transporters that draw these compatible solutes into keratinocytes,” she said. “Water then follows naturally by osmosis, allowing cells to recover their volume.”
GENENCARE OSMS BA is upcycled from a European sugar production sidestream, aligning with growing interest in sustainable sourcing.
Growing visibility among data-driven consumers
Chemist Confessions cofounder Victoria Fu said that osmolytes are well-positioned to gain traction in the same way as barrier-supporting ingredients like niacinamide and peptides, particularly among educated consumers seeking performance-backed claims.
“In recent years, we have seen ingredients rise to their cult status more on the merit of their data than their origin story,” Fu told CD. “Data shows that IFF’s osmolyte, betaine, can strengthen tight junctions, reduce transepidermal water loss, and protect proteins.”
She added that consumers are increasingly receptive to novel hydration technologies, especially when they offer measurable results and align with sustainability values.
Future applications in skin care innovation
With hydration demands evolving, formulators are looking to combine performance and functionality across a wider range of product formats. According to Gherardi, early-adopter opportunities for osmolytes include sensitive skin products, baby care, and minimalist or hybrid hydration systems.
“Pairing osmolytes such as betaine with glycerin offers comfort without stickiness—perfect for minimalist routines,” she said.
As skin care consumers continue to prioritize barrier health and environmental resilience, osmolytes are expected to play a growing role in the development of multifunctional, next-generation hydration solutions.
