!["The need for an improved sustainable solution was validated through our own consumer research. Eastman surveyed 4,000 women ages 16-70...[and] 68% of consumers in the U.S. and 69% in Europe are willing to pay more for color cosmetics that are biodegradable," said Boykin.](https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/resizer/v2/JK7B62ZBYNFKHNGAN633IXNQEI.jpg?auth=80db096c08a671e3a4ba3b51eaedaeef5f3d9e0b152f8db3c45df20f9f030b79&width=824&height=465&smart=true)
Consumer demand for sustainable beauty remains a market imperative in 2025, particularly among younger demographics, as evidenced by a recently published consumer data survey from market research firm Attest. The survey found that 67.7% of Gen Z prioritize sustainability, and 56.2% are willing to pay more for eco-friendly beauty products.
Meanwhile, the global market for “green” cosmetics was valued at $33.7 billion in 2023 and is forecast to nearly double over the next decade, according to Transparency Market Research.
Within this landscape, beauty and personal care ingredient manufacturer Eastman Chemical Company has introduced Esmeri CC1N10, a cellulose ester micropowder designed to meet emerging sustainability standards.
CosmeticsDesign US spoke with Marty Boykin, Director of Care Solutions & SFE Technology Division at Eastman, to learn more about the development process behind ingredient formulation and how rising market pressure on ingredient manufacturers is driving strategic research into biodegradable microparticles for cosmetic products.
Designing for performance and biodegradability
Driven by the need to align ingredient performance with shifting regulatory and environmental demands, Eastman’s R&D team designed Esmeri CC1N10 to be freshwater readily biodegradable, and compliant with the European Commission’s microplastics restriction under Regulation EU 2023/2055.
“We focused on two critical factors,” Boykin told CDU. “First, ensuring the micropowder ingredient was...breaking down in as little as 28 days, [and] second, delivering the optical and sensory properties consumers and formulators expect from color cosmetic ingredients.”
According to Boykin, these targets presented obstacles that required iterative development and expertise in materials science. While the biodegradation benchmark was particularly challenging to meet, he conceded, “through extensive discovery, development and testing, we were able to achieve both objectives.”
Integrating regulatory planning into material design
“By analyzing market needs and trends through blueprinting exercises to identify opportunities that aligned with Eastman’s unique technologies and capabilities,” Boykin said. The manufacturer was able to kick-start the development process by anticipating regulatory shifts and identifying opportunities to apply its proprietary cellulose chemistry to the cosmetics market.
“Our R&D team and product safety & regulatory affairs team worked closely together to define both performance and emerging regulatory requirements for the target applications and regions,” he told CDU, which was essential to define the dual objectives of environmental compliance and formulation viability.
Verification of biodegradability was conducted by an external third-party laboratory using standardized freshwater testing, he confirmed. Additionally, internal benchmarking was used to evaluate material performance before external evaluations by potential brand partners.
Technical development for color cosmetics
Esmeri CC1N10 was designed to function as a biodegradable alternative to conventional synthetic microparticles used in a range of color cosmetic formats. The powder’s chemistry is based on cellulose acetate butyrate and includes controls over particle size and uniformity to optimize compatibility and performance in lipophilic systems.
“Esmeri CC1N10’s unique chemistry and precise control of particle size and uniform distribution results in a powder with superior sensorial properties,” Boykin shared. “The result is a smooth, even finish across a range of color cosmetic applications, including lipsticks, liquid foundations, and pressed powders.”
Functionally, the micropowder is engineered to provide soft-focus optical effects, improve color intensity, and deliver formulation stability. “It is dispersible and stable in a variety of color cosmetic applications ranging from pressed powders, liquid foundations, lipstick, and other related cosmetic applications,” he stated.
Formulator feedback and future pipeline direction
Following Esmeri’s debut at industry events including in-cosmetics Global and NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Eastman collected technical feedback from formulation teams testing the ingredient under varied application conditions. “Feedback on Esmeri CC1N10 to date has been extremely positive both from brands and innovation partners we have engaged with directly,” said Boykin, referencing early-stage evaluation work.
While Esmeri CC1N10 is targeted at color cosmetics, additional micropowder variants are currently being developed for other personal care categories. “We also have new micropowder ingredients in the pipeline for skin and suncare formulations,” he concluded.
