In 2023, IFF highlighted its upcycled Genencare ingredient line as part of a broader sustainability commitment in the personal care sector. Two years on, the company has expanded that vision with a low-water shampoo paste concept, advancing both the technical scope and formulation potential of its ingredient portfolio.
“The development of this low-water content format was inspired by the growing need to create more sustainable personal care products without compromising performance,” Carole Gherardi, global segment lead at IFF, told CosmeticsDesign US.
“Our purifying shampoo paste from the Xelestia formulation collection exemplifies a water-reduced cosmetic concept to help formulators achieve sustainability while driving innovation in this emerging application area,” she explained.
Optimizing upcycled actives for rinse-off applications
The shampoo paste concept integrates Genencare OSMS BA and Genencare OSMS MI, upcycled, water-soluble actives first profiled in IFF’s 2023 release, with a format tailored for rinse-off hair care.
“In hair care, Genencare OSMS BA natural betaine can help protect and strengthen the hair, as well as reinforce the scalp barrier to limit water loss,” Gherardi said. “Meanwhile, Genencare OSMS MI natural inositol can support energizing the cells and improving skin oxygenation.”
Both ingredients are sourced from sugar beet production and carry Upcycled Certified status, maintaining IFF’s focus on circularity.
Technical progress in low-water formulation
IFF’s R&D team addressed formulation challenges typically associated with reduced-water rinse-off products by developing a slurry paste system.
“Glycerin acts as a humectant, retaining moisture and acting as a solvent for the remainder of the solid ingredients in the formulation,” Gherardi explained.
Meanwhile, surfactant performance is delivered via powdered sodium cocoyl isethionate, with coconut oil enhancing shine and texture, and charcoal contributes to scalp purification and visual appeal, she shared.
To support conditioning in a paste format, IFF used its cationic biopolymer Aurist AGC. “Aurist AGC improves hair manageability, crucial for a shampoo paste format, and does not increase viscosity in low water-content systems,” she said.
Sustainability benchmarks and ingredient transparency
The shampoo paste achieves a 95.6% natural origin content, as certified by ISO 16128, and is eligible for certification of upcycled content in both the US and Canada.
“This aligns with IFF’s broader sustainability strategy by reducing water consumption and promoting the use of natural and upcycled ingredients,” Gherardi said.
Beyond the shampoo paste, all four formulations in the Xelestia collection maintain high natural indices (95–98%) and incorporate readily biodegradable actives, including the Genencare series and Aurist AGC.
Showcasing formulation innovation through gamification
IFF presented the full Xelestia collection at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, where it introduced an interactive component, “Xelestia: The Game,” designed to engage formulators through immersive storytelling.
“It received strong interest for its innovative gamification of the beauty category,” said Gherardi. “‘Xelestia: The Game’ offers an interactive experience that invites users to explore the collection’s fantasy-inspired worlds [with] each product representing a unique virtual landscape.”
