Three ingredient trends CosmeticsDesign saw at In-Cosmetics this year

By Ravyn Cullor

- Last updated on GMT

Ingredient suppliers took In-Cosmetics global to showcase their newest, hottest ingredient developments. © Getty Images - Beton studio
Ingredient suppliers took In-Cosmetics global to showcase their newest, hottest ingredient developments. © Getty Images - Beton studio

Related tags in-cosmetics Global Ingredient suppliers Ingredients Sustainability Formulation

In-Cosmetics Global returned this year in Paris, and CosmeticsDesign was there to scope out what’s hot in cosmetics ingredients.

The US alone has a number of cosmetic ingredient shows, but In-Cosmetics global can give us a zoomed-out view of what’s happening globally in the market. The mix of consumer demands, scientific innovation and tech integration are driving what ingredients will shape the world of cosmetics going forward.

CosmeticsDesign walked the floor, seeing what the more than 700 exhibitors were showcasing and spotting what's trendy so you didn’t have to.

Microbiome focus

Recent research does show that microbiome health may have an impact on skin health and ingredient suppliers seem ready to jump on the “microbiome friendly”​ train.

According to the National Libraries of Medicine​, research shows the microbiome can impact skin moisture, dryness and sebaceousness and poor microbiome health could cause acne, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis.

Suppliers showcased a wide range of microbiome-focused ingredients from preservatives to actives. 

A word of caution, formulators and experts at the show said microbiome claims could be the next “greenwashing,” meaning brands need to be extra vigilant as to the efficaciousness and validity of microbiome friendliness claims.

Conscientious vs sustainable

It’s no secret that sustainability has been important in the world of cosmetics for years, but greenwashing has also been a real concern for brands. What constitutes sustainability is still a moving target and Earth-saving goals may be hard to reach, which has led suppliers to conscientious beauty.

A number of suppliers showcased steps they are taking to develop conscientious beauty claims like considerations of their supply chain, their social and environmental impacts, and integration of botanical and biodegradable feedstocks.

Outside of sustainability concerns, many brands were showcasing their programs to support the communities their ingredients come from, like shea butter and bee’s wax supply chains starting in Africa.

Solids and pearls

Solid beauty has been moving out of niche parts of the market and into a border range of companies, and suppliers are now showing their ability to create different formats.

One the hot formats was pearls, independent single-doses of a solid or concentrate formulation, often lotions or serums, which can be in the same container without congealing. Multiple companies showed their pearl formulations and capabilities.

Of course, some companies also brought other solid offerings, like concentrates, films and bars to decrease how much water a brand is shipping in a final product, what kinds of packaging can be used and if a product needs packaging at all.

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