Metabolic Explorer (Metex) had been looking to secure a commercial partner for its ‘Metex Noovista’ joint venture project with investment bank BpiFrance to upscale its alternative PDO ingredient and launch it into the cosmetics market. With a multi-million investment from BpiFrance, Metex had already started construction of its green chemical plant dedicated to the production and processing of PDO, along with butyric acid (BA) for the animal and food sectors, in France. The build was set for completion by the end of 2020, with an initial cosmetic grade PDO capacity of 5kT.
Natural, sustainable and conscious beauty target
Metex was using an industrial fermentation process to develop the multifunctional ingredient from non-GMO feedstocks. The bio-sourced PDO ingredient – set to be marketed as ‘Tilamar PDO’ – can be used across numerous cosmetic applications as a solvent, humectant and preservative booster.
For DSM, the addition of this ingredient to its portfolio aligned with the company’s long-term strategy to deepen its offering of natural and sustainable technical and performance ingredients.
Gareth Barker, president of DSM Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients, said the unique R&D expertise of Metex in the field of biotechnology enabled DSM to reinforce this commitment and address growing demand.
“The product is bio-sourced and the process fully sustainable, which contributes to DSM’s ambition to fulfil the consumer demand for conscious beauty,” Barker said.
‘Strong demand’ for bio-based cosmetic alternatives
Metex said the partnership with DSM confirmed the “strong demand” for bio-based alternatives to petrochemical products in the cosmetics space and would secure the ramp-up and achievement of its project’s financial objectives.
Benjamin Gonzalez, chairman and CEO of Metex, said: “We are very pleased with this commercial alliance with DSM, with whom we share a common vision of how to respond to consumers’ needs for natural, high-performance products.”