Cosmetics Design was at the event; and these 4 ingredient trends stood out:
Ingredients that act on endocannabinoid receptors
More and more ingredient suppliers and distributors are offering CBD. And at last week’s SCC Suppliers’ Day tradeshow in Long Beach, California, the molecule of the moment was showcased in a number of different formats.
CBD butters, for instance, were on display from Hallstar, Extracts Unlimited, and others. While Arista Industries was showing CBD oil as well as the more common hemp seed oil. American Oil Products highlighted CBD oil and CBD isolate on its booth display.
And CDB alternatives are still coming to market too, to meet the needs of brands looking to create globally compliant products as well as to help brands make benefit claims related to the endocannabinoid system that can’t yet (leagally) be attributed to CBD.
Beraca was showing an ingredient “with wellness and de-stressing properties” called Beracare CBA Cannabinoid Active System. The ingredient is a complex of natural oils from the Amazon, and materials shared with Cosmetics Design promote it as a “safe alternative to CBD, with…applications in different cosmetic products such as tonics, lotions, gels, creams, soaps, etc.”
Environmentally friendly glitters
This 2019 Suppliers’ Day tradeshow may very well have been the sparkliest such show to date. Alternative glitters, promising to be compostable, biodegradable, or otherwise more environmentally friendly than metal and plastic glitters were on display in nearly every aisle.
American Glitter was showing two different glitter materials: Celluglit made from wood pulp that’s said to degrade in only water; and Glinature made with corn (and other ingredients) that is biodegradable but does require some chemical process for degradation to occur.
Bluesun International filled an entire table with jars of its biodegradable Cosmetic Bio-glitter, made of rayon and plant-derived glycerin (and other inputs). And Meadowbrook Glitter was showing two biodegradable glitters: Bio-Jewels Cellulose Glitter and Bio-Crystalina. That company’s general sales manager Joe Colleran affirms that, so far as color cosmetics and nail color are concerned, the current trend for glitters is toward varieties made from cellulose materials and away from aluminum and polyester versions.
Care and feeding of the skin microbiome
Microbiome beauty is still very much a topic of interest to skin care and scalp care formulators. And several ingredient makers were featuring ingredients at the recent SCC show that are probiotic, prebiotic, or somehow microbiome friendly.
German ingredient maker CLR was showing 2 probiotic skin care ingredients at this year’s Long Beach Suppliers’ Day: ProRenew Complex CLR and ProBioBalance CLR NP. The ProRenew Complex CLR (Lactococcus ferment lysate) is “based on probiotic technology….and influences the speed and quality of epidermal growth,” as Shad Makhmalbaf, cosmetic chemist and vice president of technical sales at CLR, tells Cosmetics Design.
The company’s ProBioBalance CLR NP (water, lactose, milk protein, and bifida ferment lysate) is a suspension of probiotic cultures in a “biologically active milk-based matrix,” according to CLR materials Makhmalbaf shared.
Amerilure was promoting its rosemary extract as a microbiome beauty ingredient: “Maintain balance of skin microbiome with rosemary’s natural antimicrobial properties,” instructed a banner at the Amerilure booth. While Solabia encouraged attendees to “make your ecosystem happy thanks to microbiota friendly solutions.” That company was featuring its SansiScalp ingredient (for anti-dandruff, sensitive scalp, and hair styling applications) and also showing BioEcolia, EcoSkin, and Teflose as other microbiome beauty options.
And a company called bitop was showcasing its Ecotin Natural ingredient, primarily boasting protection and oxidative stress – repair benefits (anti-pollution, blue light, anti-inflammatory) but also promising “microbiome support.”
Novel approaches to tanning, UV protection, and sun care
Several suppliers at last week’s tradeshow were featuring ingredients and prototype formulas that put a twist on sun care.
AH and NS, an ingredient supplier with headquarters in Japan (and an office in New York City) was showing Pineapple Ceramide for its ability to deliver skin brightening benefits as well as to reinforce the skin structure and refine skin texture after sun exposure.
And perhaps the most interesting among this new category of ingredients is a melanin booster called Epsiline from the French biotechnology company Greentech. The new ingredient activates the melogenesis process, effectively preparing the skin for sun exposure and prolonging the color and ‘glow’ of tan skin.
Epsiline is a marine-derived ingredient made from a red microalga found in the Thau Lagoon of France called porphyridium cruentum. The alga excretes a sulfated polysaccharides matrix as part of its survival strategy; and it's those saccharides that (after processing) deliver the tan extending benefits of Epsiline. The applications for which include, but also go beyond, conventual sun care products.
Deanna Utroske, CosmeticsDesign.com Editor, covers beauty business news in the Americas region and publishes the weekly Indie Beauty Profile column, showcasing the inspiring work of entrepreneurs and innovative brands.