Noteworthy skin care ingredient launches of 2016

By Michelle Yeomans

- Last updated on GMT

Noteworthy skin care ingredient launches of 2016

Related tags: Skin care, Non-renewable petroleum-based ingredient, Cosmetics

Skin care developments have been at the helm of North America’s cosmetics R&D focus this year. Here, we take stock of some of the most interesting and innovative advances.

In March, a lip balm comprised of sheep oil made its’ debut in the US,​ which the manufacturer, Lanolips claimed to be the first of its kind to hit the US market after seeing success in Australia.

The secret to the success is the fact that instead of using the usual non-renewable petroleum-based ingredient, it has been formulated using Lanolin, an ingredient that is naturally secreted by sheep to help water-proof their wool.

Although the ingredient has long been used for a variety of applications as a moisture sealant, its’ use as a lip balm is still relatively novel, and provides a new option for consumers seeking more eco-friendly alternatives to regular lip balms.

That same month, New York based skin care company Restorsea revealed the work it had been doing on salmon egg enzyme as an anti aging skin care ingredient.

The published study appeared in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology which looked at how hydrolyzed salmon roe proteins exfoliate in contrast to glycolic acid.

In that abstract, the research team explained that on 75 women aged 31 – 70 with mild to moderate photo damage; “topical hydrolyzed roe protein used twice daily has good tolerability with fewer instances of stinging and burning than the other glycolic acid containing creams.”

By July, DSM had released new testing results for its Amphisol K oil-in-water emulsifier​ stating that the ingredient boasted advantages over similar potassium cetyl phosphate emulsification technologies, when used to formulate facial skin care and sun care products.

According to a company press release at the time, the ingredient offered stability and texture and is a ‘mechanism for long term stability.’

Finally, North Carolina Biotechnology Center, SynShark and an enterprising farmer in North Carolina announced later this summer they had cultivated tobacco as a renewable squalene source to test out in skin care formulations.

As the personal care industry’s interest in sustainably and ethically sourced naturals continues, this landlocked squalene supply could be a win for both beauty and the flagging tobacco industry.

Farming tobacco for squalene comes, of course, with a financial incentive. “Working with a high-dollar product, smaller farmers have a chance to recoup the cost of farming activity and be more competitive,” ​notes Ornstein.

Related topics: Formulation & Science, Skin Care

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