New oil-in-water emulsifier and freeze-fracture technology are advancing sun care

By Deanna Utroske contact

- Last updated on GMT

New oil-in-water emulsifier and freeze-fracture technology are advancing sun care

Related tags: Sun care, Ultraviolet, Dsm

DSM’s latest sunscreen ingredient—which the company is demonstrating this week at The Sunscreen Symposium—promises to improve product stability and simplify development.

The Florida chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists puts on the symposium twice each year, and the gathering “welcomes sun care specialists from around the world to exchange about the next horizon of Sun Care innovation and global regulatory requirements,”​ according to a media release.

On display

DSM is at the event to present its new AMPHISOL K emulsifier to sun care formulation professionals. The company will illustrate through comparative science possible ways “to overcome current challenges posed by high UV filter and pigment loads over a broad viscosity range,”​ explains DSM in a statement to the press.

“Further, [the DSM demo] will illustrate the potential for development of a new generation of highly sophisticated sunscreens and day care products which combine a high level of protection, while delivering sensorial attributes that promote consumer compliance.”

In the lab

What the company has developed is an oil-in-water emulsifier, which the team leading the launch has described in an abstract about the ingredient: “Latest research revealed a unique emulsifier that is able to form mainly lamellar structures with very dense packed layers of water phase and liquid crystalline lipid phases.”

Christine Mendrok-Edinger, Karina Radomsky, Karina Hecker,Christine Saecker, and Jochen Klock of DSM go on to explain that, “the rarely seen micro-domains which are known to be responsible for stabilizing emulsions could be identified by freeze-fracture Scanning-Electron-Microscopy.”

That technology helps the team more fully understand the systems at work and showcase them for their peers.

In the sun

Consumers are looking for multifunction sun care that feels comfortable enough for daily use. Ingredients like this one from DSM are aiming to improve the sensorial appeal of sun products. When the consumer demand and the industry standard match up, it’s likely more consumers will use more sun care products with great regularity.

And that’s what brands are after: “We need to take sun care protection out of the realm of ‘speciality’ or occasional use products and encourage daily, year round use,” ​Deborah Hernan, president of Ottilie & Lulu Naturals for Tweens told Cosmetics Design​ in an earlier item on sun care.

Related topics: Formulation & Science, Skin Care

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