The third edition of its Trend Lab concept will be unveiled at the in-cosmetics event in Barcelona in April, but here, we are providing you with a sneak peak of just how the world of fashion is influencing the cosmetics arena with Asian influences, bursts of color, geometry and natural elements.
Stewart Long, who is the regional skin care market leader for Dow Corning Beauty Care, spoke exclusively with Cosmetics Design to explain how each of these four influences are shaping cosmetic formulation demands.
Asian-inspired textures - Crossover
Sleek ponytails and shiny, glossy locks and natural looking skin were prominent among designers from Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera to Atuzarra and Wes Gordon, representing the Crossover trend.
Q: What kind of products are consumer looking for in response to this trend?
A: Customers are gravitating toward products that offer a weightless, natural texture and appearance. These include creams and serums that leave the face and hair smooth and glossy without a tacky feel.
Q: And how is that translating into the formulation side of things?
A: We are seeing Asian products influencing the textures and sensory aspects of formulations in the global markets. Formulations are becoming lighter, easily absorbed and liquid like – from foundations to moisturizing creams. Exciting new sensory experiences and textures are appealing to consumers across the globe.
Pops of color – GenZ
From bursts of neon eye color at Peter Som to juicy, bright orange lips at Tanya Taylor, the Gen Z trend continues to inspire designers.
Q: Which specific color cosmetic products will best carry this trend?
A: Hair Chalk is an excellent example of the types of products that represent the GenZ trend. It offers the experience of an eye shadow and translates to temporary hair coloring/hair make up.
Q: What does this mean on the formulation front?
A: Formulations are in demand that create exciting, bold products but are also not permanent. People want to express themselves on the weekend but easily go back to their ‘office’ look during the week.
Q: Is this a more long-term trend? Will it survive into summer, for example?
A: It will evolve and change and the colors and styles will reflect the seasons, but we expect the GenZ trend to remain prominent throughout 2015 with many new product formats emerging.
Geometric eyes – Virtual Reality
Christian Dior and Nanette Lepore models made statements with bold, geometric eyes, embodying the Virtual Reality trend.
Q: Will this look principally be created by mascara, eye shadow or both product types?
A: Both product types are showing these bold, 3D effects from huge volume mascaras to shimmering depth in eye shadows.
Q: How are products updated or adapted to meet this trend?
A: Consumers demand products that create huge impact, and that means high color, high gloss, or extreme matte effects. These are extreme versions of traditional products.
Q: What will be required on the formulation side to meet this trend?
A: The Virtual Reality trend puts huge pressure on formulators to be able to load high pigment levels and still make comfortable, long-lasting products and to create counter-intuitive matte lipsticks, for example. Our materials and expertise are helping formulators meet these challenges.
Au naturel – Great Expectations
The Great Expectations trend was heavily represented through the bevy of fresh-faced beauties at Tory Burch and the nearly make-up free models at Marc Jacobs and others.
Q: What specific cosmetic products will be most popular to help achieve this look?
A: Natural, fruity or floral scented lotions that evoke another time or place but also nourish and moisturize the skin embody the Great Expectations trends. This is about consumers seeking experiences in the natural world with natural looking products.
Q: Is it a cosmetic look, about natural-based formulation, or a combination of both?
A: It is a cosmetic look that’s inspired by nature and imparts a natural look and feel.
Q: Could this look ultimately mean consumers may buy less cosmetics?
A: Consumers will likely never stop buying cosmetics and, in fact, those following the Great Expectations trend love to experiment and experience new things. They are more likely to buy more, high-performance, longer lasting products.