P&G research shows moisturising formula with niacinamide provides greatest skin benefits

By Andrew McDougall

- Last updated on GMT

P&G research shows moisturising formula with niacinamide provides greatest skin benefits
Research carried out by Procter & Gamble Beauty & Grooming has found that moisturizing formulas containing niacinamide and glycerin provide significantly less skin dryness and more skin hydration, and could be of benefit to many skin care products.

The study, published in the peer-reviewed Journal of Drugs in Dermatology​,compared the skin benefits of several body moisturisers, and found that samples containing a niacinamide/glycerin formula, in its Olay Advanced Healing Lotion and Olay Ultra Moisture Lotion, had significant advantages versus a number of competitive moisturizers.

“These findings demonstrate that cosmetic moisturizers formulated with niacinamide go beyond moisturisation to improve the integrity of the stratum corneum for improved skin benefits over time,”​ said Rolanda Johnson, a senior scientist at P&G Beauty & Grooming.

“Furthermore, the speed benefit seen with the niacinamide/glycerin formulas in both studies can be attributed to niacinamide, as it has been shown to be a cosmetic ingredient with multiple benefits on ageing skin appearance.”

Testing claims

The skin care maker carried out two randomized, controlled studies evaluating the skin barrier integrity and skin hydration benefits of a variety of moisturizers containing various levels of oils/lipids (petrolatum and mineral oil), humectants (glycerin), as well as other ingredients (niacinamide).

Women aged 18 to 65 were chosen as participants and were required to pre-condition their skin by using Olay bar soap in place of their usual products for bathing and showering.

Then, a controlled amount of each assigned product, containing different amounts of niacinamide, glycerine, and mineral oil, was applied to the lower legs twice per day during the week and once per day during the weekends for 21 consecutive days.

Following the completion of the treatment phases, participants began a six day regression phase in which evaluations and procedures were performed on each site to assess product effectiveness and barrier integrity resulting from the application of the formulas.

Rapid and prolonged skin improvement

The two niacinamide/glycerin moisturizers examined in the studies demonstrated an overall better solution towards rapid and prolonged improvement of dry skin due to their functional improvement of skin barrier function compared to no treatment and the other moisturizers tested, prompting P&G to highlight the claims made about its Olay products.

“Because cosmetic skin dryness continues to be a leading skin problem for consumers, we wanted our research to focus on an ingredient formulation that would provide significant benefit to skin moisturization and barrier integrity,”​ said Johnson.

“When formulated in combination with humectants, such as glycerin, a well-known water-soluble, hydroscopic lipid, the niacinamide-containing moisturizers tested in these studies, break the dry skin cycle and help heal the moisture barrier.”

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