Delivery systems drive growth in cosmetics market

By Ameann DeJohn

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Delivery systems, Skin

Delivery systems once reserved for the luxury clinical market are finding their way into mass-market cosmetic products due to the demand by consumers for efficacious products at every price point.

Delivery systems were mainly designed to stabilize volatile actives, but they now deliver those actives with enhanced penetration, faster response time, and targeted release.

In 2001 Kline reported that Delivery Systems were 25 percent (EUR 62m/ $80m) of the total Western European Consumption of specialty actives and active delivery systems. Moreover, in 2011 the estimated market is EUR 81m ($105m) according to Kline’s recent research Delivery Systems in Personal Care 2011.

The US market for delivery systems is growing rapidly as it has increased from $19 billion in 2000 to over $41 billion in 2007 and still growing, according to the Journal of Cosmetic Science.

One Delivery System is not compatible with every active.

Different actives require different delivery systems. The most effective and volatile actives receive the credit when combined with a functional and compatible delivery system. Delivery systems serve as a “vehicle” for the transport of active ingredients into the skin layers.

An example of one of these delivery systems is the Microsponge Delivery System (MDS) by AMCOL Health & Beauty Solutions, which pairs with retinol, benzoyl peroxide and hydroquinone. This is a proprietary and patented system, with highly cross-linked, polymeric microspheres which entrap a wide range of actives to be released into the skin over a period of time. These white label clinically tested products are available to professionals.

Retinol Molecular Film Fluid is a new cosmetic delivery system specifically created for retinol. This technology ensures stabilization of the retinol molecule and enhances cutaneous absorption of Vitamin A through the epidermis. Additionally, ZO Skin Health by Zein Obagi, MD, offers a retinol product available with their Time-Released Microspheres Delivery System.

Lipoderm â Core,​is​a proprietary and patent-pending blend of ingredients that claims transdermal action when added to an emulsion. The technology works by creating a small amount of disorganization in the stratum corneum, thus opening up channels in the lipid matrix of the skin. The technology is effective with polar and non-polar enhancement and is available from PCCA.

ActivBoost by Technology Recovery Systems is a patented and patent pending natural delivery system. The ActivBoost system works by creating water channels in the stratum corneum to deliver hydrophilic and lipophilic molecules to the skin and surrounding tissues. ActivBoost's Hydroxide Releasing Agent (tm) system is capable of delivering many actives, most notable high levels of Vitamin D, to and into the skin, in dosages previously thought to be impossible.

Delivery systems can distinguish products across the multiple channels.

Strivectin’s continous release delivery system, NIA-114, is touted as “going beyond topical application and actually penetrating the epidermis.”

A new international brand, Jackline d’Esolle, utilizes a patented technology to deliver pure retinol with a controlled retarded release. This technology claims to offer a much higher bioavailability than any other delivery system. This technology protects the retinol from oxidation and when applied to the skin, forms an ultra thin, uniform film, ensuring optimal coverage, penetration and control release of active. This controlled release shows little to no irritation from the retinol.

Typically the active gets the credit for the efficacy, but as more proprietary delivery systems are developed this should change. These targeted delivery systems enable formulators to achieve efficacy at the required site of action, which lends a huge boost to the active ingredients goal, and therefore the overall products optimal performance.

Related topics: Market Trends

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