Dow launches non-silicone hair conditioning polymer

According to the company, the polymer was developed to respond to formulators’ demands for silicone free products and is the first in a range of ingredients that will use the EcoSmooth silicone-free platform.

“Our customers and industry brand owners have asked for formulation choices; some requesting non-silicone options. Dow Personal Care works closely with customers to ensure we’re meeting brand owner and consumer needs,”​ Courtney Fretz, strategic marketing manager for hair care at Dow Personal Care, told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.

Dow Personal Care claims the EcoSmooth Silk polymer is a complete departure from the more traditional approach to conditioning in personal care products.

Unlike most conditioning polymers EcoSmooth Silk is not cationic. Instead of using the traditional co-acervation mechanisms associated with cationic conditioners, the polymer binds hydrophobically to the hair shaft replacing one hydrophobic chain with another, the company claims.

Shampoo for Asian and European hair​

Unveiled at in-cosmetics Asia held in Bangkok last week, the ingredient is designed to be used in shampoos for Asian and European virgin (non-dyed) hair.

Fretz explained that differences in the hair types between populations are likely to be why EcoSmooth Silk performs particularly well on Asian and European hair.

“European and Asian hair tends to be round while African hair tends to be flatter and oval in shape. This difference in hair shape may cause the film to form differently on different types of hair,”​ she said, adding that further studies are needed to confirm this hypothesis.

In addition, to performing well on wet combing and hair breakage tests, EcoSmooth Silk can also help prevent product build up when compared to silicone-containing shampoo.

“Build up on hair is a common consumer concern,”​ Fretz said. “The performance benefits offered by EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers represent a distinct benefit to formulators looking to address the issue of build-up or foam stability as they develop new formulations,” ​she added.

In addition, Fretz told CosmeticsDesign.com USA that the ingredient may offer additional manageability when compared to silicone options.