The Spain-based ingredients supplier says Gladback is ‘multi-targeted’ botanical active that is derived from Poria Cocos, a fungus used in Asian traditional medicine.
Ageing and menopausal skin
According to Provital, ageing and the menopause reduce the expression of collagen, hyaluronic acid and the CD44 receptor, (the main receptorof hyaluronic acid). In addition, the expression of the SPRR protein family increases, said Provital, which can lead to a skin imbalance.
All these changes contribute to a reduction in skin radiance, thickness, firmness and cell renewal; factors which Gladback can help to combat, the company said.
In in vitro tests, the ingredient changed the gene expression of some of the genes relating to skin ageing, said Provital, as it was shown to decrease SPRR gene expression while increasing that of collagen IV and hyaluronic acid.
In vivo trials
An in vivo test was carried out where 18 volunteers aged between 50 and 65 applied both a placebo and a formulation containing Gladback at a level of 5 per cent to the skin over a 56 day period.
Results of the clinical trial showed that Gladback increased skin thickness by an average of 8 per cent, as well as increasing skin density. It was also shown to increase skin radiance by an average of 0.55 per cent (with a maximum of 1.4 per cent), and skin microcirculation of 0.53 per cent on average, (maximum increase of 6.8 per cent).
As a result of the improvement in overall skin condition, Gladback reduces the appearance of wrinkles, the company said.
The ingredient can be used in a variety of cosmetic applications, according to Provital Group, including face and body care products for mature skin, global anti-ageing lines and anti-ageing colour cosmetics.