The high level of sterolesters contained within Lipex Cellect brings moisturizing and soothing properties to cosmetics, the company claims.
According to AAK, the vegetable-derived phytosterol esters in the ingredient speed up the barrier recovery of aged and sensitive skin for a more youthful and healthy appearance.
Improving skin barrier function
Research has demonstrated natural sterols to have potential cell membrane stabilizing properties similar to cholesterol. The company says the phytosterol esters within Lipex Cellect help to restore the elasticity, strength and flexibility of skin cell membranes.
An optimally functioning skin barrier that keeps the skin in good condition contains a combination of lipids, ceramides and cholesterol.
AAK’s director of Lipids for Care, North America, John O’Keefe, explained to CosmeticsDesign.com USA that a reduction in skin barrier function due to a deficiency of these components is often linked to aged and sensitive skin.
“Aged skin is characterized by a low inflammatory condition caused by an imbalanced barrier function and a typical low content of cholesterol,” he said, adding that AAK’s ingredient helps to combat this.
“Lipex Cellect brings sterolesters that can help to improve the balance of the vital skin lipids and to decrease inflammatory conditions,” he said.
In vitro testing
The ingredient was shown in in vitro tests to demonstrate anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, according to AAK.
Topical application of the test components on a reconstructed epidermis aimed to evaluate potential anti-inflammatory properties of the sterolesters contained within the ingredient.
The pro-inflammatory agent Phorbol myristate acetate was added in order to initiate an inflammatory reaction measured by the formation of IL-1 alpha cytokines, explained O’Keefe.
“Lipex Cellect reduced the cytokine level to normal conditions and demonstrated a significant reduction of the induced inflammation,” he said.
Lipex Cellect applications
The company says that Lipex Cellect is particularly well-suited for facial skin treatment products, eye cream, face masks and intensive therapy skin care among others.
Additionally, it is said to demonstrate a good shelf life and its low melting point makes it easy to formulate creams and lotions with an elegant skin feel.