Laboratoires Sérobiologiques launches 4-in-1 skin care ingredient

By Katie Nichol

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags Skin Effectiveness

Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS), the active ingredients business of Cognis Care Chemicals, has developed a 4-in-1 anti-ageing botanical active for skin care applications.

Elestan is an extract from the leaves of the African tree Manilkara, which protects the skin, counteracts the negative effects of ageing and restores elasticity and firmness, according to LS.

“Elestan has an innovative four step mechanism of action, offering a comprehensive anti-ageing approach based on the protection and repair of the elastic fibre network,” ​Anne-Laurie Rodrigues, communications manager at LS, told

Four levels of action

According to LS, Elestan combats the effects of elastases (naturally occurring enzymes that break down elastin), in order to preserve the skin’s youthfulness. It has been shown to stimulate the synthesis of elastin, which the company says contributes to the recovery of already damaged skin.

The ingredient is also said to stimulate the synthesis of the elastin-associated proteins Emilin-1 and Fibulin-5, which ensures optimal structuring of the elastic fibre network.

Furthermore, the ingredient has an anti-glycation effect due to the fact it can inhibit the rigidification of skin fibres, claims LS.

According to Rodrigues, the unique four step mechanism can result in both formulation simplification and cost efficiencies.

“Such a comprehensive answer to biological ageing has many advantages for our customers as it avoids the interaction between different actives in terms of formulation and also significantly reduce the cost of the formula as you have the four effects in the same ingredient,” ​she explained.

Clinical tests verify efficacy

LS says that the efficacy of Elestan has been verified through various clinical tests, one of which was based on the Dynaskin method.

The method is designed to measure firmness and tonicity without coming into direct contact with the skin of the volunteers, as it involves deforming the skin with a stream of pressurised air and measuring the deformation behaviour with a 3D fringe projection technique.

Results showed that after 56 days of applying an Elestan-containing emulsion, the volume of depression decreased by 10 per cent and its maximum depth was reduced by 5 per cent, with the reduction in both parameters corresponding to an increase in skin firmness and tonicity.

LS says the ingredient can by used in a variety of skin care applications, including anti-ageing and elasticity-enhancing skin care, anti-glycation skin care and firming body care.

Related topics Formulation & Science

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