Naturex targets cosmetics with new range of actives

By Katie Bird

- Last updated on GMT

Naturex steps up its focus on cosmetics with the release of the first three ingredients in its NatBeauty range.

Traditionally known for its food, flavour and beverage portfolio, Naturex announced in April last year that it would be taking steps to grow its cosmetics division, with the aim of achieving 10 per cent of its total turnover from this category by the end of 2010.

Macaderm, hydravance and effineo make up the France-based company’s new portfolio of cosmetics actives.

Specific activity claims

Ingredients in the NatBeauty range are branded actives that make specific claims backed up with in-house efficacy studies, explained Antoine Dauby, head of marketing at the company.

This contrasts with the NatSelect range that contains botanicals also aimed at cosmetics formulators but for which no specific claims are made.

Macaderm is based on an extract from the maca (Lepidium meyenii) found in Peru; but it is more than just a simple extract, according to Dauby.

“With nuclear magnetic resonance we were able to study the extract on the molecular level and we discovered the components macaenes and macamides. Through our extraction process we can produce ingredients with a specific composition and concentrate,”​ he said.

According to the company, the ingredient can help improve cohesion between the dermis and the epidermis and is designed for anti-aging formulations.

Hydravance is based on an extract from the bitter orange flower and helps improve the water balance in the skin, explained Dauby.

The third of the new actives, effineo, targets cellulite and is derived from the green coffee bean extract.

Antimicrobial actives

Along with the NatBeauty and NatSelect, the company also offers a range of actives with anti-microbial properties that can help formulators preserve their products.

NatProtect contains a number of rosemary, onion and pomegranate based ingredients a number of which are USDA certified organic.

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