LS launches a series of new natural-based actives

By Simon Pitman

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Skin care, Skin

Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS) has launched a series of new
active ingredients that tap into consumer demands for greater
efficacy derived from natural products to treat specific
age-related skin conditions.

The ingredients, which include a newly formulated vitamin A extract and two additions to the LS Eye Line, specifically targeting the delicate skin area around the eyes, have been developed to meet the increasingly complex requirements of today's skin care formulations.

The company, which is the active ingrdients division of the Cognis group, says that its vitamin A extract is specifically targeted to compare favourably with Retinol, an ingredient known for its anti-ageing efficacy, but one that is often difficult to formulate with other ingredients and is known to cause skin irration.

In answer to this LS has developed Vit-A-Like LS 9737, which it claims has a similar action to Retinol, with the advantages of being both highly stable and skin tolerant.

A multi-active anti-ageing ingredients, the company says that its research has shown it to markedly accelerate the renewal of the epidermis by stimulating cell renewal, as well as stimulating collagen synthesis, giving it anti-ageing functionality for the skin.

The ingredient has a dual action on the skin, stimulating both the epidermis and the dermal layers of the skin, representing a comprehensive action against ageing.

Furthermore, it is also said to be suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, and can be used in a variety of products, but more specifically regenerative preparations and anti-ageing products aimed at mature skin.

The company claims that a two-month clinical test on LS 9737 showed that a skin cream containing 5 per cent of the ingredient had a noticeable effect on the crow's foot area around the eyes.

Likewise in vitro and in vivo tests also determined that the ingredient had a beneficial effect on both the dermal synthesis and epidermal renewal.

The two eye ingredients launched by the company are Eye Resolution, which specifically targets under-eye bags, and Active Power Eye Light, which specifically targets dark circles under the eyes.

As the skin around the eyes is about ten times thinner than on any other part of the face, it is naturally more susceptible to signs of ageing and fatigue in the form of wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness.

As a result many skin care products specifically target this area, but with the segmentation of the skin care sector, this area has become the focus of an increasing number of product launches that treat specific conditions for the skin around the eyes.

Eye Resolution LS 9509 is said to reduce the volume of bags under the eyes to give them a more youthful and healthy appearance. It uses bark extract from Amazonian-sourced Cecropia obtuse trees known as Cannon wood, which is known to reduce fat deposit and activate their elimination.

Active Powder Eye Light 9792 targets dark circles. Its active properties are derived from five plant extracts that include algae, Calendula Officinalis flower and Ruscus Aculeatus root.

The ingredient forms part of the company's Active Powders technology, which makes it possible to incorporate water-soluble active ingredients in anhydrous colour formulations. As well as eye skin care product, this makes it suitable for a host of eye make-up products, including concealers and eye shadows.

Targeting very specific skin care products and basing the products on natural ingredients, LS is tapping into two of the fastest-growing categories in the personal care industry.

Currently the world-wide market for natural care and anti-ageing products are the two key drivers of industry growth.

Euromonitor estimates that the world market for anti-ageing skin care products is worth over $7bn and is continuing to grow at well into double figures, while the market for natural cosmetic products in the US alone has grown by over 50 per cent in the past five years to reach $5bn - a figure that is largely represented by skin care products.

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