Aragan tree boost actives for LS
active ingredients derived from Aragan trees for cosmetic and
personal care applications as part of a partnership that aims at
fair trade and sustainability, reports Simon Pitman.
LS, which is the active ingredients division of Cognis Care Chemicals, has been working in partnership with local community groups on the LS Argan programme, which aims to promote ecological farming, fair trade and sustainability in the development of new ingredients.
Almost four years ago, LS and Targanine, a co-operative network, formed a partnership with the aim of identifying new sources of active ingredients for cosmetics and improving revenues from the cultivation of the argan tree (Argania Spinosa).
The argan tree is found only in southern Morocco, where the local population have for centuries extracted a high-quality oil from the tree's seeds, and used it for culinary purposes and in traditional beauty rituals. Currently argan plantation cover around 800,000 hectares which include some 20 million trees.
However, in recent years, the argan tree has been threatened by social and climatic factors, such as increased agriculture, over-exploitation, ground erosion and desertification.
One result of the partnership is the development of three innovative cosmetic ingredients for care applications, using different parts of the argan tree in a sustainable way. Arganyl is a flavanoid extracted from the trees leaves, which is said to have anti-ageing properties due to its anti-MMP and anti collagenese activity. Arganensyl is a protein extracted from aragan seeds that is said to tighten skin and reduce lines. Lipofructyl Argan is a high purity oil with skin hair and nail beauty applications.
By using an accredited all-women cooperative network as its sole supplier, LS claims that it is helping to support the integration of women in Moroccan society.
"The potential extra revenues are encouraging local communities to conserve and expand the argan forest, working in partnership with the Moroccan Water and Forests Authorities and following the recommendations of an impact study conducted by LS, which demonstrates the need to trim the Argan leaves in order to allow optimal growth of the tree," an LS spokesperson said.
LS also says that, with the aim of improving the trees sustainability, it has provided funding for a argan tree nursery, as well as an education programme to give the local population a better understanding of its value.
Isabelle Benoit, Marketing Manager LS saud, "The cosmetic industry has felt the benefits of globalisation for many years now, as it has led to an exchange of ideas between different regions and increased access to exotic plants. So it is only right that we should pay more attention to sustainability at a global level. Sourcing should be carried out in an environmentally responsible manner that is compatible with socio-economic considerations. To protect the planet's biodiversity and our shared heritage, we work closely together with local communities around the world."
