Biomimetic hair care ingredient from Croda

Incroquat 18-MEA-40 is the latest addition to Croda Personal Care's patented 18-MEA lipid range which was specifically developed for hair care. Described as a quaternised derivative from 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA), the primary lipid of the hair surface, Incroquat 18-MEA-40.

Research has proven that the substance 18-MEA becomes depleted in hair damaged by chemical treatment or environmental stress, so in answer to this the company has developed the new, shampoo-friendly ingredient as a means of restoring hair's natural hydrophobicity and condition.

18-MEA is bound to the surface of the hair and is pivotal in creating a lubricious film on the hair fibre, which protects the hair from external attacks on both the condition and appearance of the follicle.

Further hazards such as chemical treatment, combing, styling and environmental stress such as UV exposure can deplete this fatty layer, making the surface more hydrophilic. When this occurs, hair tends to become unmanageable, harder to comb and more susceptible to further damage.

"Incroquat 18-MEA-40 helps to rejuvenate and maintain hair by enriching its natural lipid content. This ingredient's novel biomimetic character and excellent claims support will be of great interest to manufacturers looking for the next generation hair conditioning agent,"​ said a company spokesperson.

Croda,​ which is a UK-based company supplying speciality ingredients to the personal care, home care and health industries worldwide, claims that Incroquat 18-MEA-40 is easy to incorporate into clear surfactant and cold process systems, and is recommended for upper-end shampoo, conditioner and styling products.