Lonza launches new oleosome technology
multifunctional oleosome technology that is said to save on
formulating time as well as reducing costs. Simon Pitman
reports.
The new technology performs as an emollient, emulsifier and moisturiser in one product. The non-sensitising ingredient can comprise the entire oil phase of a cosmetic emulsion as well as reduce manufacturing costs and ease formulation through cold processing techniques, Lonza claims.
The technology is based on an oil-in-water emulsion derived from plant oilseeds. The emulsion is comprised of naturally occurring oil droplets called oleosomes, in which the oil is surrounded by a shell of phospholipid and a protein called oleosin. The oleosome emulsion is said to be cosmetically elegant, extremely flexible, and offers multiple functions as an emulsifier, emollient, and carrier/delivery system for small molecule actives.
The ingredient system was developed by SemBioSys Genetics, a Canadian biotechnology company, and has broad patent protection in the US, Canada and elsewhere.
Lonza and SemBioSys joined forces in May of 2004 with the execution of a licensing agreement for exclusive global rights to the technology for use in personal care applications, and the two companies have worked closely together to bring ingredient system to the personal care market.
Natrulon OSF - oleosomes derived from safflower seeds - is the first product launched in this platform of unique, all-natural ingredients.
"The DermaSphere oleosome technology is a breakthrough in cosmetic formulating," said Carl Cappabianca, vice president global marketing & technology for Lonza's Health, Hygiene and Personal Care team. "The unique attributes of oleosomes allow this technology to be used in a wide range of applications, saving formulators and plant personnel time and effort while lowering manufacturing costs."
From a formulating perspective, the ingredient system can be used in moisturising creams, sunscreens, ointments, lotions, eye-care products and many other products.
Swiss-based Lonza, which last year had a turnover of CHF2.24 billion (€1.45bn), says that the self-emulsifying oleosomes can replace the entire oil phase of the cosmetic emulsion, including traditional emulsifiers and surfactants and simplify the cosmetic formulation process. From a manufacturing perspective, the technology allows for cold processing which can increase production throughput, lower labour requirements and reduce energy costs.
