Active ingredient to drive functional cosmetics

Related tags Cosmetics Solubility Lipstick

Laboratoires Sérobioligiques, a subsidiary of France-based Cognis
Group, has launched Active Powders, a new technology that is said
to facilitate the incorporation of water-soluble activities in a
variety of cosmetics applications. Simon Pitman reports.

The company says the technology has been specifically designed for a variety of anhydrous cosmetic formulations, including pressed powders, lipsticks and compacts. Increasingly women are looking for multi-functionality from their cosmetics in addition to both choice of colours and sensory profile, with anti-aging and moisturisation properties proving to be the most popular.

However, the use of water-soluble actives in make-up products with anhydrous functions has not been possible until now, because of process restrictions and incompatibilities between raw materials. Which is where LS has been able to step in with it Active Powders technology. It contains up to 70 per cent hydrophilic particles that are protected by a hydrophopic polymer. What this means is that in each particle the solubized active can reach 90 per cent. In turn this allows the powdered form to absorb up to 63 per cent of an aqueous solution.

In turn the powder's water solubility means that it can support all the major cosmetic claims for multifunctional properties in products such as lipstick, pressed powders and compacts.

The first product to be launched on the market will be Active Powder Firmness LS 9689, which contains an active fraction that is said to give anti-aging benefits through its anti-elastase an anti plasmin abilities. The company claims that a clinical test has demonstrated this capability to improve skin firmness.

The clinical testing was carried out in the Cognis​ laboratories on the Active Powders involved 15 female volunteers, who are all said to have confirmed the effectiveness of the products skin firming capabilities. A hot-poured compact make-up containing five per cent Active Powder Firmness was said to have improved skin firmness by 20 per cent compared to a placebo. On top of that an in vivo test showed the ability of the powder to withstand high pressure processes, making it flexible to work well with a number of cosmetic applications.

"Consumers today expect multifunctionality and greater efficacy from their daily products,"​ says Isabelle Benoit. "With its Active Powders Technology, LS enables cosmetics producers to combine skin care and colour cosmetics, broadening the range of care claims that can be made with colour products."

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