Three takeaways from In-Cosmetics Global 2024 in Paris

Last week, CosmeticsDesign attended In-Cosmetics Global 2024 in Paris. According to the organization's website, In-Cosmetics hosts international shows across Europe, Latin America, and Asia that connect 1,800+ suppliers of ingredients, fragrances, lab equipment, testing, and regulatory solutions with 40,000+ cosmetic industry professionals. In recent years, exhibitors from over 120 countries have met with over 10,000 visitors per show to discuss market insights, industry innovations, and networking opportunities. 

From educational seminars on marketing trends to the sustainability and innovation zones and the show floor, here are CosmeticsDesign’s three key takeaways from this year’s convention. 

Shifting interests towards naturally derived ingredients 

In alignment with a vested interest in increasing ethical and sustainable ingredient sourcing practices, this year’s In-Cosmetics Global was rife with naturally derived ingredient options. Cosmetics ingredients supplier Mibelle Biochemistry, for example, debuted bioinspired PinoPlex, a moisturizing ingredient for hair care products designed to smooth hair cuticles. Derived from upcycled hand-picked pinecones, the ingredient mimics the natural mechanism of pinecones, which open and close their scales in response to moisture. 

US-based manufacturer Grant Industries also exemplified this trend by launching three new ingredients at the show, including Granpowder BBP-700, a 100% natural biodegradable powder designed to function as a microplastic alternative in product formulations. The ingredient comprises a yeast fermentation and amino acid derivative and can support another micro-trend seen at this year’s show: enhanced sensory experiences. 

Other innovations of note within the shifting trend towards more naturally derived ingredients for cosmetic and personal care product formulations include Oat Cosmetics’ Rejuvaveen active ingredient, a high oat beta-glucan extract designed to protect against stress-related skin damage, and The Upcycled Beauty Company’s Barley TONIQ, an upcycled active ingredient derived from spent grain leftovers to soothe irritated skin. 

Renewed focus on ingredient efficacy 

A noteworthy shift in consumer behavior has placed greater emphasis on scientific and data-backed research into product efficacy in impacting purchasing decisions, particularly in beauty care. In response, companies like Vantage Specialty Chemicals have invested in consumer research to inform data-backed campaigns focusing on following trends to develop ingredient formulations designed to meet the needs of different generational demographics from Gen A through the Silent Generation. 

Other companies like Dow have instead focused on obtaining third-party certifications for ingredient collections, like promoting its skin microbiome-friendly ingredients, which have recently been certified by MyMicrobiome AG and include the industry’s first skin microbiome-friendly certified silicone technologies. 

Further still, organizations like Robertet have focused on certifications for their ingredient supply chain to ensure consumer confidence in product formulation efficacy. This year, Robertet’s Brazilian supplier of Yerba Mate obtained Fair for Life certification, which includes banning pesticides or insecticides. These are both significant causes of concern for consumers seeking natural and effective product formulations. 

Growing interest in holistic wellness in beauty  

A popular subject of discourse across multiple educational seminars, the increased consumer interest in holistic wellness and its relationship with the beauty industry was a hot topic at this year’s In-Cosmetics Global convention. In her presentation “Beauty sleep: Circadian rhythm skin care,” CosmeticsDesign Asia editor Amanda Lim discussed the nuances of sleep science and its impact on the efficacy of skin care products. 

Similarly, BEAUTYSTREAMS’ seminar “Health-Span Beauty: The impact of longevity on our industry” delved into the blue zone approach to enhancing consumer health span. Blue zones, or regions where people are claimed to have longer lifespans than the average, include areas in Japan, Italy, Costa Rica, and Greece. There is a growing trend in beauty care to source product formulation ingredients from these areas to increase product efficacy. 

Mintel Director—Beauty & Personal Care Andrew McDougall also touched on this topic in his presentation “NeuroGlow—where cutting-edge science meets holistic wellness.” His discussion focused on the rapid evolution of innovation in this beauty market sector and how product formulators can better meet the consumer demand for options that address holistic wellness concerns. 

In-Cosmetics Global 2024 in Paris illuminated critical shifts in the cosmetics and personal care industry, with a pronounced move towards sustainable, naturally derived ingredients marking a significant trend. This shift is complemented by an intensified focus on ingredient efficacy, driven by consumer demand for data-backed products and third-party certifications.

Additionally, the convention underscored the growing convergence of beauty and holistic wellness, highlighting the industry's commitment to addressing consumers' multifaceted needs. These trends signal a dynamic and responsive sector poised to deliver more sustainable, effective, and wellness-oriented beauty solutions to increasingly discerning consumers.