CEA-Leti, a French institute active in the field of micro- and nanotechnology, announced that its patented Lipidots nanovector technology for medical applications has been successfully transferred to its partner Capsum for use in the cosmetics arena.
Lipidots is described as 'a versatile nano-delivery platform based on tiny droplets of oil' to encapsulate and carry fluorescent imaging agents or drugs to targeted cells in the body for diagnosis or treatment. The technology was adapted by Capsum, which specialises in the encapsulation of active ingredients for cosmetics, for its NeoGouttes nano-emulsions.
The technology transfer follows seven years of collaboration between CEA-Leti and Capsum, and has produced the first commercial use of the new technology according to the two parties.
“The success of our project with Capsum demonstrates that the Lipidots nanovector technology can be scaled up from laboratory to industrial production easily and efficiently, and that it is well suited for a non-medical application like cosmetics,” commented Patrick Boisseau, head of Leti’s nanomedicine programme.
Encapsulation of active ingredients
Capsum says its NeoGouttes are biodegradable nano-emulsions from natural lipids free of inorganic nano-particles. They are used as components in finished products, such as lotions, serums and creams.
The cosmetics maker explains that NeoGouttes are a highly effective way of vectorizing lipophilc or hydrophilic concentrates of active ingredients, which are physically and chemically isolated from the rest of the formula. As such, the active ingredients are protected and conveyed through the skin for optimal effect.
A spokesperson for Capsum told CosmeticsDesign.com USA that with NeoGouttes, the company has been able to obtain unprecedented active ingredient concentration levels of up to 70%. In addition to reinforcing the efficacy of the encapsulated ingredient, says Capsum, NeoGouttes impart new texture properties, creating a product that is soft, light and silky smooth.
“Leti’s Lipidots technology is a breakthrough that strongly enhances our encapsulation systems, and offers more ways for our customers to bring their products to market,” commented Capsum CEO Sébastien Bardon.
La Prairie, Amore Pacific and Dr Brandt among clients
The spokesperson said that NeoGouttes are used in many products commercialised by Korean company IOPE, part of Amore Pacific Group, and that Capsum is discussing several projects with companies in Europe and the US.
Other high-end brands that have adopted Capsum's various encapsulation systems for use in skin care products include La Prairie, Guerlain and Dr Brandt.
The company worked with La Prairie on its Liquid Lift anti-aging serum, part of the Swiss skin care brand’s Skin Caviar range, and worked with Dr. Brandt on the Transforming Pearl Serum DNA anti-aging product. Most recently, French cosmetics brand Guerlain launched its Abeille Royale 1 month treatment, which contains Royal Jelly encapsulated in Capsum pearls.