From byproduct to beauty: Advancements in sustainable ingredients and transparent sourcing

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For the latest insights and innovations in ingredient upcycling and transparency, CosmeticsDesign has compiled a global roundup of the latest industry movements and scientific research supporting a circular economy in beauty, which has been developed to transform supply chains and refine transparency. (Getty Images)

Explore the latest in ingredient upcycling and transparency advancements as the cosmetics industry redefines sustainability with digital traceability and innovative, waste-derived ingredients.

As environmental sustainability cements itself as a core value in the cosmetics and personal care industry, brands and manufacturers are turning their focus to two key areas: ingredient upcycling and transparency. Once seen as forward-thinking, these practices have become essential in building consumer trust, reducing environmental impact, and meeting the demands of a more informed, eco-conscious customer base.

In response to this shift, industry leaders and innovators are exploring sustainable ingredient sourcing and advancing transparency through technology. By integrating digital platforms that trace ingredient origins, brands can provide consumers with a clearer understanding of their product journey—from raw material sourcing to shelf. Similarly, upcycling programs are gaining momentum, repurposing byproducts and reducing waste to create new, valuable ingredients that align with sustainability goals.

For the latest insights and innovations in ingredient upcycling and transparency, CosmeticsDesign has compiled a global roundup of the latest industry movements and scientific research supporting a circular economy in beauty, which has been developed to transform supply chains and refine transparency.

#1: Coconut Waste: Discovering Sustainable Approaches to Advance a Circular Economy

This study, published in the MDPI Sustainability journal, explored innovative ways to repurpose coconut byproducts, especially for cosmetics and personal care. Recognizing that coconut production generates substantial agro-industrial waste with environmental implications, the authors emphasize coconut waste’s “transformative potential,” mainly due to its rich lignin and phenolic compounds.

The study highlights potential applications for coconut residues in bio-oil, ethanol, organic fertilizers, and antioxidants, which have “promising” applications in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. Despite these benefits, the researchers noted several “technological challenges” and called for investment in new technologies and a more integrated coconut value chain to fully realize these sustainable benefits.

Source: Sustainability

2024, 16, 3066. https://doi.org/10.3390/su16073066 

"Coconut Waste: Discovering Sustainable Approaches to Advance a Circular Economy" 

Authors: Vieira, F. et al. 

#2: Egyptian Citrus Essential Oils Recovered from Lemon, Orange, and Mandarin Peels: Phytochemical and Biological Value

Published earlier this year in the MDPI Horticulturae journal, this study examined sustainable upcycling of Egyptian citrus peel waste, highlighting essential oils (EOs) derived from lemon, orange, and mandarin peels as promising resources for cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food preservation. The study used advanced molecular analysis (GNPS-MN and GC/MS) to identify that D-Limonene, α-pinene, and β-pinene are primary volatile compounds across these citrus peels.

The EOs demonstrated “promising activities” as antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, and antimicrobials, with lemon EO showing “excellent antimicrobial activity” against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. Given their biological activities, citrus EOs are proposed as “natural and safe alternatives” that align with circular economy goals by providing functional, waste-derived ingredients for sustainable products.

Source: Horticulturae

2024, 10, 180. https://doi.org/10.3390/horticulturae10020180 

"Egyptian Citrus Essential Oils Recovered from Lemon, Orange, and Mandarin Peels: Phytochemical and Biological Value" 

Authors: Ibrahim, F.M. et al. 

#3: Antioxidant Marine Hydrolysates Isolated from Tuna Mixed Byproducts: An Example of Fishery Side Streams Upcycling

Published in the MDPI Antioxidants journal, this study presented an innovative approach to upcycling tuna canning byproducts into bioactive peptides for potential use in nutraceuticals and biomaterials, including beauty-from-within supplements. Researchers developed two methods to extract protein-rich peptides—small protein fragments with health benefits—from these tuna byproducts.

One method used an enzyme to break down proteins further, producing smaller peptides that could potentially be easier to absorb. Both approaches yielded high levels of protein (about 80%) and essential amino acids. These peptides show strong antioxidant properties, which help combat aging and oxidative stress, making them ideal for beauty nutraceutical products. 

The study highlights a “blue circular economy” approach by repurposing tuna processing waste, aligning with sustainable, zero-waste production goals. This research suggests that fish peptides could be valuable ingredients in supplements that support skin health and overall vitality while also addressing consumer demand for sustainable, functional beauty products.

Source: Antioxidants 

2024, 13, 1011. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox13081011 

"Antioxidant Marine Hydrolysates Isolated from Tuna Mixed Byproducts: An Example of Fishery Side Streams Upcycling" 

Authors: Grasso, F. et al. 

#4: Smell the Perfume: Can Blockchain Guarantee the Provenance of Key Product Ingredients in the Fragrance Industry?

A recent study published in the MDPI Sustainability journal examined the potential of blockchain technology to enhance traceability in the fragrance industry. The industry faces unique challenges due to its “globally dispersed, fragmented supply chain.” While brands increasingly claim sustainability and ethical sourcing of fragrance ingredients, verifying these claims remains difficult.

Blockchain, which Investopedia defines as "a digitally distributed, decentralized, public ledger that exists across a network," could address these issues by providing “an immutable and traceable digital record” for secure information sharing, according to researchers. However, the researchers identify four key challenges that hinder blockchain’s adoption: “bringing together supply chain actors” into a blockchain network, facilitating the open sharing of data across traditionally private relationships, ensuring the accuracy of information encoded, and involving regulatory bodies in blockchain oversight.

The study concluded that while blockchain has the potential to improve traceability in fragrances and similar industries, overcoming these barriers will be critical for any large-scale blockchain-based solution to succeed.

Source: Sustainability

2024, 16, 6217. https://doi.org/10.3390/su16146217 

"Smell the Perfume: Can Blockchain Guarantee the Provenance of Key Product Ingredients in the Fragrance Industry?" 

Authors: MacCarthy, B.L. et al. 

#5: Antimicrobial Compounds from Food Waste in Cosmetics

A review published in the MDPI journal Cosmetics earlier this year highlighted the potential for cosmetics companies to use antibacterial compounds derived from food waste, like fruit peels and seeds, as natural preservatives, offering a sustainable alternative to synthetic chemicals. These bioactive ingredients, including polyphenols and essential oils, “improve the shelf-life and safety of cosmetics” and align with consumer demand for natural, eco-friendly products.

This approach “supports environmental sustainability” and creates added value for the beauty industry by upcycling food waste. However, challenges remain, including the need for standardized extraction processes and regulatory guidelines to ensure the safety and efficacy of these natural ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

Overall, the review emphasized that with interdisciplinary research and regulatory support, food waste-derived compounds could become central to the future of “safe, sustainable cosmetics.”

Source: Cosmetics

2024, 11, 151. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050151 

"Antimicrobial Compounds from Food Waste in Cosmetics" 

Authors: Silletta, A. et al. 

#6: High-Tech Sustainable Beauty: Exploring Nanotechnology for the Development of Cosmetics Using Plant and Animal By-Products

A review in the MDPI Cosmetics journal explored how the cosmetics industry increasingly uses nanotechnology to transform plant and animal by-products into high-performance beauty products, aligning with eco-conscious consumer trends. This approach uses nanocarrier systems to improve the stability and delivery of natural bioactive compounds, such as antioxidants and anti-aging agents, from waste materials like fruit peels, vegetable scraps, and fish by-products.

Researchers wrote that this “intersection of high-tech methodologies and sustainability” allows companies to create “effective and green” cosmetics, supporting circular economy goals by reducing waste and environmental impact. 

The review also highlighted the challenges of scaling these innovations, including regulatory hurdles, the need for safe, transparent supply chains, and the economic feasibility of advanced extraction methods. However, by promoting collaboration across research, industry, and consumer education, the review suggested that the cosmetic sector could lead in sustainable practices while meeting the demand for effective and eco-friendly products.

Source: Cosmetics 

2024, 11, 112. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040112 

"High-Tech Sustainable Beauty: Exploring Nanotechnology for the Development of Cosmetics Using Plant and Animal By-Products" 

Authors: Nhani, G.B.B. et al. 

#7: Microbiome Evolution of Brewer’s Spent Grain and Spent Coffee Ground Solid Sidestreams Under Industrial Storage Conditions

A recent study published in the MDPI journal Applied Sciences examined the potential for upcycling brewer’s spent grain (BSG) and spent coffee grounds (SCG), sidestreams from beverage production, for use in food, feed, and cosmetics. However, BSG and SCG face spoilage challenges that can limit their safety and usability.

Researchers analyzed samples of these sidestreams from breweries and cafes in Singapore and recycling facilities, identifying significant microbial differences based on storage and source. Samples from recycling facilities, for example, contained higher bacterial loads, including Bacilli in BSG and lactic acid bacteria in SCG.

Storage conditions strongly influenced spoilage. Under aerobic conditions, fungal contamination was substantial, with the detection of Aspergillus flavus, which can produce aflatoxins and pose safety risks. By contrast, anaerobic storage slowed fungal growth but led to shifts in bacterial species, including some anaerobes.

The study highlighted the need for careful storage and handling practices to ensure the safety of BSG and SCG, emphasizing that “food safety risks must be managed” to support the safe and effective upcycling of these sidestreams in food and cosmetic applications.

Source: Appl. Sci.

2024, 14, 9759. https://doi.org/10.3390/app14219759 

"Microbiome Evolution of Brewer’s Spent Grain and Spent Coffee Ground Solid Sidestreams Under Industrial Storage Conditions"   

Authors: Hermansen, C. et al.