Earlier this year, ROELMI HPC, a healthcare and personal care products company, launched its “Sense the Beauty” capsule collection. This formulation guide is intended to showcase a series of ten ‘beauty cocktail’ topical ingredient formulations utilizing microbiota-compatible ingredients and sensory agents that are inspired by different sensory experiences for use in cosmetic and personal care product formulations.
Characterized as a “beauty-tasting experience,” these topical formulations are designed as a set of ten “beauty cocktails” intended to serve as a guideline for cosmetic and personal care product manufacturers to inspire creative uses in end products that are both trendy and effective.
To learn more about the development process of this formulation guide, some challenges that were overcome to bring the “Sense the Beauty” collection to launch, and how consumer demand for ROELMI’s topical formulation guide is determined, CosmeticsDesign spoke with Elisa Altieri, Marketing Manager in Personal Care at ROELMI HPC for her insights.
About the formulation guide
Designed to “target on-trend skin microbiota care,” the “Sense the Beauty” collection consists of topical formulations for face masks, cosmetic products, serums, and more. [CS4] The ROELMI HPC Beauty Bar concept was “born from the idea to tickle all our senses, playing with unique textures, eye-catching colors and crisp smells, all emotions that we used to have sitting on a bar table and drinking special drinks,” said Altieri.
Inspired by cocktails like a Cosmopolitan or Sex on the Beach, the efficacy of these formulations “is demonstrated by the presence of microbiota friendly ingredients, able to positively act on the skin environment; the texture performances are made by ROELMI HPC emollients” with the goal of “creating a sensorial cascade that can bring people into an amazing and emotional journey,” she shared.
Further, she added, “all the formulas contained in the ‘Sense the Beauty’ capsule collection have been designed following the highest standard and are based on our best knowledge.” By considering the effect on of each formulation on the skin’s environment, rather than just the human epidermis, the collection “aims at protecting the natural stability and biodiversity of cutaneous ecosystem, without altering its composition,” she shared.
The wide range of formulation options were curated with the aim of creating a comprehensive “skin microbiota care routine,” offering consumers the ability “to protect the skin, counteracting skin aging signs, fatigue or sensitive disorders; while with the color cosmetics formulas, they can approach to the active make-up: vibrant colors with moisturizing, anti-aging and microbiota well-being properties,” she explained.
H2// Challenges to formulation
There were a few challenging situations that the ROELMI HOC formulation team needed to solve throughout the design process to bring the formulation collection to launch. Specifically, the process for “Beauty in a Nutshell,” a three-in-one makeup product for lips, cheeks in eyes which is encapsulated in a monodose delivery system required greater focus from the formulation team to develop.
“In the formulation process,” shared Altieri, “the technicians made an attentive evaluation to find the perfect balance and compatibility to create a multifunctional product composed of a short list of ingredients - only from natural origin - to ensure consumer safety and product stability.” Additionally, due to the unusual packaging choice of a monodose capsule, this required greater work to bring to launch and “required a specific study on the texture for a friendly use and correct delivery on the skin,” she explained.
The second formula that required greater problem solving by the formulation and development team is “My Laguna Blue,” a “hyper-fluid face and neck cream in an easy-to-use dropper, designed to support a pro-age daily treatment that improves skin suppleness and elasticity with a deep hydration,” said Altieri. When focusing on the formulation process, the team faced “challenges related to the structure of the formula, which had high sensitivity to a potential instability due to its hyper fluid texture,” she explained. To overcome this issue, the ROELMI HPC formulators developed “a proper scheme of ingredients compatibility and behavior” to produce “a high performing and stable formula.”
H2// Regarding consumer demand
Considering that the capsule collection’s aim “is to present and promote ROELMI HPC’s ingredients in the best way possible,” consumer demand played a significant role in the development and launch of “Sense the Beauty.” By showcasing the final formulations in a unique and innovative way that encompasses all five senses, “customers are able to feel the difference in terms of textures, in case of functional ingredients, or can have the proof of how it is possible to include active ingredients easily in water or oily phase,” said Altieri.
In this way, the formulations serve as “a guideline or a good starting point’” for ROELMI HPC’s customers. Further, “all formulations have successfully passed the stability test at different temperatures, which is a great point for all formulators,” she added.
Moving forward, the ROELMI HPC team plans to continue to create innovative formulations to inspire its customers. “Every day in our lab, we are developing new formulations, all driven by the market trends, our philosophy and creativity,” said Altieri. In order to accomplish these goals, considering “what is on-trend is mandatory for our studies, but we also try to find new textures and new concepts able to satisfy even the most demanding requests,” she concluded.