In a recent study funded by German biotech solutions firm MedSkin Solutions Dr. Suwelack, published in the Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, researchers say they have overcome the solubility, chemical instability and bioavailabilty challenges to develop an effective test product with 2% resveratrol concentration.
“This study demonstrates that a cosmetic product with resveratrol in the right bioactive form and the right concentration has significant anti-aging benefits and properties,” Ciska Janssens-Böcker, head of clinical affairs at MedSkin Solutions Dr. Suwelack told CosmeticsDesign-USA.
Effective in higher doses
Resveratrol, a polyphenol found in plant species such as grapes, peanuts and Japanese knotweed, is used in many nutraceutical formulations due to its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
In skin care products, it is increasingly added in low doses as an anti-aging ingredient, but the study recalls that resveratrol must be used at relatively high concentration to be effective in topical in vivo application. Previous studies have demonstrated that the biological activity of resveratrol depends on its concentration in soluble trans form.
“Our constant focus is on developing effective formulations that contain ingredients in their most active form and in the right concentration, so that the active ingredient penetrates the skin in its most active form,” Ciska Janssens-Böcker explained.
Researchers noted at the time of the study that they were unaware of other water-based creams with a concentration as high as 2% of solubilized, bioavailable trans-resveratrol on the market.
“As resveratrol itself is very difficult to incorporate in soluble form (soluble in water only by 30 mg/L), most water-based creams available for cosmetic care contain low concentrations of solubilized resveratrol,” the study states.
Testing the parameters: Eight weeks to anti-aging
To determine the efficacy of the emulsion on age-related alterations to the skin, the resveratrol emulsion was tested on 20 female volunteers from the University of Hamburg, ages 30 to 35 years.
The product was applied topically to the face once a day for eight weeks in combination with a standardized treatment. Tested parameters included skin elasticity, skin barrier function, skin smoothness, skin thickness and density.
After the clinical trial period, the study notes: “Skin pH value is significantly lowered and skin barrier function improved”. The value of skin elasticity (+5.3%), and skin density (+ 10.7%) had increased, while skin roughness (-6.4%) and skin dispensability (-45.9%) had diminished.
The conclusion: “The resveratrol emulsion shows positive outcomes by supporting reduction of skin wrinkling and increasing skin firmness, as well as reducing skin redness, and is therefore an all-round anti-aging treatment.”
Although the study notes that further research is needed to reveal the underlying molecular mechanism of the findings, Janssens-Böcker explains that the results support the reveel by MedSkin Solutions’ Resveratrol Concentrate product “by demonstrating the anti-aging properties and skin benefits of this formulation.”
Skin Anti-Aging Benefits of a 2% Resveratrol Emulsion
Authors: Brinke, A., Janssens-Böcker, C. and Kerscher, M.