New generation of energy boosting anti-ageing ingredients

By Katie Bird

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Ingredients, Marketing

An increasing number of ingredients promise to fight against skin
ageing by increasing energy production in cells.

However, the current proliferation of such ingredients may be driven as much by the need for new marketing angles as by scientific advances, according to an industry expert. Increase in cell energy for repair and protection ​ Manufacturers claim these products influence the workings of the mitochondria - the engine of a cell - generating more energy that can be used to manufacture essential proteins such as collagen and keratin as well as for cell repair and protection. A number of the top ingredients players are leading the trend including International Specialty Products who has a range of products that are designed to upregulate the energy production of cells. One of the recent additions to ISP's portfolio is ATPeptide IS - a synthetic tripeptide - which can increase ATP level in-vitro​ by as much as 150 per cent, according to the company. Other recent releases include Silab's energising ingredient SMS Energy and Provital Group's Energen, both designed to target the male cosmetics market. New science or marketing strategy? ​ Although a significant proportion of these ingredients may be the fruit of new scientific research, the pressure on company's to release scientific background for already existing actives cannot be underestimated, said Gillian Morris of market research company Kline Group. According to Morris the current proliferation of cell energy boosting ingredients is related to the growing demand for product claim substantiation and increasingly scientific marketing. "Five years ago companies could get away with simple marketing, now they have to say what their actives do and how they do it,"​ said Morris. This is all driven by the increasingly savvy consumer and an extremely competitive marketplace, she explained. Morris confirmed that there has been a definite increase in the number of ingredients with energy boosting or ATP related claims. However she recognised the potential of sophisticated scientific claims in the marketing of new and existing products referring to it as 'ammunition in a company's marketing arsenal'. Next big thing?​ As to whether or not energy boosting ingredients will be the next big thing in the anti-ageing market, Morris replied that it was too early to say. She referred to alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) and peptides as two of the most defining ingredients in the industry in the last decade as both have successfully moved from cosmeceutical prestige products to masstige and mass market products. An ingredient's ability to move through the product classes into mass market goods relies on both its price and its attractiveness to mass market consumers. It remains to be seen whether sophisticated scientific references to mitochondria and ATP will make the transition.

Related topics: Market Trends

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