Anti-glycation agents proving popular in skincare
Glycation occurs when the naturally occurring sugar molecules in the skin bond to a protein or lipid molecule without the controlling action of an enzyme.
The resulting glycation process impairs the functioning of biomolecules, which in skin serves to weaken the structure at a cellular level, leading to a less firm surface and a greater tendency towards wrinkling.
Although glycation has been known to contribute to skin aging process for some time now, 2009 witnessed several skincare launches with anti-glycation claims, which highlighted specific active ingredients that are claimed to help combat the process.
The four anti-glycation agents contained in the Dermal Renu skincare products are carnosine, pueraria mirifica extract, plantago extract and green tea extract, which according to the company, are all proven to address the issue of glycation.
“Other glycation treatments may have one or two anti-glycation agents, but we decided to include this combination to address the process of glycation from a number of different perspectives,” Katie Zenyuh, marketing director for Dermal Renu told CosmeticsDesign.
Proprietary delivery system
The ingredients in the formula are continuously released into the skin through the proprietary delivery technology system, Eduriveil.
According to the company, the technology creates a sheer veil over the skin that holds the ingredients and gradually releases a combination of active ingredients and nutrients into the skin.
“This matrix not only acts as a delivery system, but also slows down moisture loss in the skin,” Zenyuh explained. “This delivery system moisturizes and treats while addressing the underlying causes of unhealthy skin such as oxidation and glycation,” she added.
The company believes that this delivery system, which aims to treat skin aging over the long term, is more effective than products that promote rapid release and absorption for immediate results.
Successful clinical trials
An independent clinical study of the Dermal Renu line conducted on women between the ages of 50 and 59, showed that continuous product use over eight weeks resulted in a marked decrease in the markers of glycation.
Skin glycation marker, Skin Auto-Fluorescence (SAF) was measured at the beginning of the trial and again after eight weeks. Skin treated with Dermal Renu showed a 3.8 percent reduction in SAF. In contrast, untreated skin showed a 4 percent increase in SAF levels, according to the company.
