One of the highlights of last week’s in-cosmetics Asia event was the Best Ingredient Awards, with the top prize going to Canada-based Lucas Meyer for an ingredient targeting photo ageing damage from infrared light.
The company had two ingredients entered for the awards, but it was Elix-IR that won the panel of judges over, an ingredient that is described as the first ever botanical active designed to fight infra’ ageing.
The idea behind the development of this ingredient is that it targets signs of ageing caused by infrared light, a contributing factor of visible signs of skin ageing which the company claims has been underestimated for many years.
First ingredient to target infrared photo-ageing
Developers at Lucas Meyer, as well as independent scientific research has highlighted the fact that infrared and the heat generated from it, can be responsible for a loss of elasticity and firmness in the skin that ultimately leads to wrinkles.
The ingredient works through its inhibitory action on cathepsin G enzyme. Its enzyme inhibitor effect reduces IR-, UV- and head-induced MMP production, as well fibre degradation.
Targeting individuals with various degrees of sun damage to their skin, clinical trials showed that Elix-IR provides a global action against photo-aging that can compliment conventional UV protection products.
Launched earlier this year, and already an award winning product, the ingredient has been eco registered and is also compliant with regulations for the vast China market.
Silver and Bronze awards
Meanwhile, the team of six judges, headed up by Dr. Alain Khait and Judi Beerling, gave the silver award to Lipotec with Source of Youth Cream with Juvefoxo peptide, while the bronze award went to Schülke & Mayr with sensiva PA 30.
JUVEFOXO peptide has been developed to mimic the activity of FOXO3a, subfamily of the Forkhead box (FOX) transcriptional factors, which is involved in cell repair, renewal and longevity, and is said to have DNA-repair properties.
Schülke’s sensiva PA 30 combines the antimicrobial activity of two nature-identical fragrance ingredients that are active against spoilage-causing and odour-causing germs, with the boosting and skin care properties of naturally-derived emollient.