Called L22, the newly patented emollient is said to deliver the same type and ratio of skin lipids produced by a healthy 22-year old, hence the name of the ingredient.
The ingredient has been developed using a combination of botanical extracts that include Macadamia, jojoba, and olive. But Floratech president Steve Brown went on to explain to Cosmetics Design about the further complexity behind the product's development.
Development achieved a set of lipids to resemble that in human skin
“It is important to note that L22 is not simply a mixture [of botanicals] – we have swapped parts of the lipids to achieve a set of lipids which much more closely resembles those that are made by human skin,” he said.
Skin oil is composed of various types of lipids, with this composition varying in function with age, becoming less abundant as the individual gets beyond early adulthood.
The L22 emollient has been developed to deliver the same type and ratio of lipid components as a young adult, the company claims, which should make it a suitable ingredient for a wide range of anti-aging products, particularly those targeting the eye area.
'Young, healthy skin oil'
“We believe L22 will significantly improve the oil phase of any personal care product, most notably in anti-aging skincare”, said Brown.
“L22 is the closest we have seen to young, healthy skin oil. L22’s wax ester component is tailored to possess a high palmitoleic content, and its triglycerides are longer-chain than commonly available from most botanical oils.”
The ingredient will be launched at the 1st annual anti-aging conference, to be held in New Brunswick, New Jersey on September 18, and the plan is to distribute it worldwide.