AAK has opened a new Personal Care Innovation Lab in San Jose, which the company say is designed to support growing demand for highly functional natural products.
The Sweden-based lipids specialist has appointed Sara Lampard, as US technical manager, bringing with her more than 12 years of formulation and product development experience with advanced expertise in the design of functional natural cosmetic products.
According to Lampard, functionality is the top priority when selecting cosmetics ingredients as consumers demand beauty benefits from products above all other criteria.
Importance of efficacy and functionality
At the recent Cosmetics Vision event, which took place in Cannes, Cosmetics Design spoke with AAK technical director Jari Alander, who said that for suppliers selecting an ingredient that has the best efficacy and functionality is very important.
The AAK expert also stated that sustainability is important and that natural has to be properly defined in the industry and by individual businesses in order to get the message across to the end user.
However, consumers choose beauty products because they are looking to achieve a certain image or a certain result on their hair or skin, meaning that first and foremost the product must perform.
"Our priorities are always, first functionality, then sustainability," Jari says.
Unique sensory properties
The ingredients supplier's eco-designed ester ingredient like 'Lipex SheaLight', is a general-purpose emollient for a wide range of cosmetics and is an extension of AAK Personal Care’s Lipex line of shea-based functional emollients.
The ester is aimed at cosmetics brands looking to develop formulations that combine light, dry sensorial properties with a better sustainability profile, the company states, highlighting that the ingredient fits with the global trend towards making skin care products lighter (particularly facial skin care and body care).
Lipex SheaLight is said to have unique sensory properties compared to other shea butter based ingredients, a claim supported by the results of an evaluation performed by a trained sensory panel in which the ingredient was found to be less greasy and more powdery compared to reference emollients.